Travel

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The Life or Death of the Salton Sea?

This huge California lake was a haven for birds and fish, and aimed to be a paradise for man but toxic chemicals and salt may be doing it in

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The Suyá Sing and Dance and Fight For a Culture in Peril

For 25 years, anthropologist Tony Seeger has documented the music of Brazil's Suyá and he now leads the effort to protect their rights

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The Nation's Treasures Take to the Highways for a 12-City Tour

The assignment: pick the best of 140 million items, pack them (many are priceless and irreplaceable) and truck them across the USA

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His Name Meant "Father Turk," and That He Was

Almost overnight Kemal Ataturk banned the fez, secularized the state, gave women the vote and set Turkey on a course toward the West

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Alaska's Arctic Refuge: on the Minds of Many

There are other glorious wilderness areas in America but none quite as magnificent, as controversial or as far north as this one

Arthurian knight

A Pilgrim's Search for Relics of the Once and Future King

Ancient stones and much-loved stories yield both hints and guesses about Arthur and his Camelot

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Urban New Agers Have Taken Over the Art of Dowsing

Once just a way to find water, this rural practice is now used to test both food and dinner partners can you believe it?

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Vietnam Now

In the center of Saigon, streets glow with signs of new prosperity and trails of light from passing vehicles

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The Granddaddy of the Nation's Trails Began in Mexico

The Camino Real, after languishing in the shadow of the Santa Fe, the Oregon and the California trails, is finally getting its due

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They Forced Martinis Down My Throat and Kept Me Prisoner All Night

Zulueta

A Year-End Night of Magic in This Cuban Hill Town

Was Zulueta a place of memory or of myth? When a journalist returns to his ancestral home to find out, the fireworks cast a spell

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Las Vegas Meets La-la Land

Inside its surreal new superhotels, the city synonymous with glitz is taking fantasy to the max and creating an escapist mecca

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There Was Never a Harder Place Than 'the Rock'

Used for 29 years to house the nation's worst criminals, the penitentiary on Alcatraz earned its reputation as 'Uncle Sam's Devil's Island'

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In Small Town, U.S.A., Everyone Is a Somebody

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"Now Lower Your Butts, Flangeheads, and Haul Away, Haul Away!"

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The Toll You Pay to Enter This Eden is Sweat, Pain and Fear

Not far from Siberia, our second-largest national park is a haven for bear, moose, wolf . . . but not tourists

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Keeping Up With Our Freelancers in the Field

Since this magazine started sending writers and photographers all over the world back in 1970, they've had more adventures than most of us can dream up

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On These Sidewalks of New York, the Sun is Shining Again

Everybody's heard about the bad-news Bronx, but few realize there has been an amazing turnaround. Welcome to the good-news Bronx

Around The World Solo In a Sailboat: What Does It Take?

It takes stamina, humor, planning—not to mention hanging from a line 60 feet up, over waves the size of a house, in gale-force winds

Poilâne loaf

Any Way You Slice it, a Poilane Loaf is Real French Bread

Forget the baguette. This legendary Parisian baker makes authentic sourdough boules the old-fashioned way—by hand, over wood fires

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