Michael Pollan and Ruth Reichl Hash out the Food Revolution

Be a fly in the soup at the dinner table with two of America’s most iconic food writers

Michael Pollan and Ruth Reichl dine at Bell & Anchor in Great Barrington, Massachusetts. (Illustration by Lara Tomlin)
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R: So did you eat Kosher?

P: No, I couldn’t. I might have made a different decision, now. But then, who knows what a heart attack does to the taste of the meat?

R: Adrenaline. She had been running around for a while, she probably didn’t taste too good.

P: Stress before slaughter, that’s where you get those “dark cutters,” as they’re called in beef production—that dark mushy meat you sometimes get from stressed-out animals. Instead I just dug a hole, right there, and we buried her with the blue ribbon, that I had hanging from the rearview mirror of my car...

R: You didn’t keep the ribbon?

P: No, I probably should have kept the ribbon.

R: That’s a very sad story. Your father took no responsibility for this at all?

P: He thought it was a cool idea, so he gave me the pig, and then I was on my own. I suppose it was a good lesson. I learned something about responsibility. And that pigs don’t make good pets. I mean Kosher was driving me crazy. Before that she was biting my sisters, escaping all the time.

R: That’s the interesting thing about meat-eating. At what point do you stop worrying about life?

P: Peter Singer, the animal liberationist, used to only eat any animal without a face. But then he stopped doing that, too.


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