Spectacular High Fashion Rises From a Landscape of Trash

Informed by the critical environmental problems that plague many parts of the African landscape, photographer Fabrice Monteiro, costume designer Doulsy and the Ecofund organization have collaborated on a harrowing series of photographs. Fabrice Monteiro
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The costumes designed by Doulsy for the surreal figures in The Prophecy series were partially made from garbage found at the site. Fabrice Monteiro, The Prophecy, Untitled #2 / Courtesy Mariane Ibrahim
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Monteiro said he was shocked by the debris he found on the shoreline of West Africa when he returned home after 20 years abroad. Fabrice Monteiro, The Prophecy, Untitled #3 / Courtesy Mariane Ibrahim
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Fabrice Monteiro posed this djinni in a trash-burning dump to show the disturbing effects of Senegal’s pollution. Fabrice Monteiro, The Prophecy, Untitled #6 / Courtesy Mariane Ibrahim
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Collaborating with Ecofund and Doulsy, Monteiro chose ten locations for photo shoots. Fabrice Monteiro, The Prophecy, Untitled #9 / Courtesy Mariane Ibrahim
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When Fabrice Monteiro returned to his native West Africa after 20 years abroad, he longed to go surfing. But old fishing nets matted the shoreline; blood from slaughterhouses gushed into the sea; plastic bags festooned the trees like black leaves. “It was a shock for me to find how polluted everything had become,” the photographer says. To spotlight Senegal’s gravest ecological problems, Monteiro teamed up with Ecofund, an environmental group, for a series of photographs starring a “djinni,” or supernatural genie, warning of mankind’s folly in a way that local children might also understand. This djinni, wearing a costume by the Senegalese fashion designer Doulsy using garbage layered according to the time it takes to decompose, looms over a vast trash-burning site outside Dakar where 1,300 tons of waste are deposited each day. The djinni looks away from the camera—toward, depending on your view, a greener horizon, or a smoking abyss.

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