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The Mystery of Tikal

An ancient Mayan city, once hidden by overgrown jungle, evokes a childlike sense of wonder

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  • By Mark Strauss
  • Smithsonian magazine, January 2008, Subscribe
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I was only 7 years old when I visited Tikal. Along with other children, I broke away from the tour group and wandered among the chambers inside the ancient Mayan edifices. I ran my hands along the walls, imagining that if I pressed a stone just so, a secret chamber would open, revealing treasure or a royal sarcophagus.

No such luck—but that didn't diminish the mystery that enshrouds the ancient city in Guatemala. Founded in 200 B.C., it emerged as a regional superpower that dominated other city-states stretching from the Yucatán Peninsula to western Honduras. Tikal's reign abruptly ended when, for unknown reasons, the Mayans abandoned the city in A.D. 900. Enveloped by jungle, it would not be rediscovered until 1848. Since then, only 15 percent of the site has been excavated.

But what can be seen above ground is the archaeological equivalent of shock and awe. Six temple pyramids dominate the skyline, the tallest of which, Temple IV, stands 212 feet high. Visitors can scale it by means of wooden ladders and protruding roots. Temple VI lays claim to the most extensive hieroglyphics in the Mayan world, narrating the city's dynastic history.

When asked to choose one word to describe Tikal, David Stuart, a professor in the department of art and art history at the University of Texas in Austin, responds: "Vertical."

"The design of those buildings was meant to impress," says Stuart, who has visited the city a dozen or so times during the past 20 years, "and it still works."


I was only 7 years old when I visited Tikal. Along with other children, I broke away from the tour group and wandered among the chambers inside the ancient Mayan edifices. I ran my hands along the walls, imagining that if I pressed a stone just so, a secret chamber would open, revealing treasure or a royal sarcophagus.

No such luck—but that didn't diminish the mystery that enshrouds the ancient city in Guatemala. Founded in 200 B.C., it emerged as a regional superpower that dominated other city-states stretching from the Yucatán Peninsula to western Honduras. Tikal's reign abruptly ended when, for unknown reasons, the Mayans abandoned the city in A.D. 900. Enveloped by jungle, it would not be rediscovered until 1848. Since then, only 15 percent of the site has been excavated.

But what can be seen above ground is the archaeological equivalent of shock and awe. Six temple pyramids dominate the skyline, the tallest of which, Temple IV, stands 212 feet high. Visitors can scale it by means of wooden ladders and protruding roots. Temple VI lays claim to the most extensive hieroglyphics in the Mayan world, narrating the city's dynastic history.

When asked to choose one word to describe Tikal, David Stuart, a professor in the department of art and art history at the University of Texas in Austin, responds: "Vertical."

"The design of those buildings was meant to impress," says Stuart, who has visited the city a dozen or so times during the past 20 years, "and it still works."

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Related topics: Travel Mayan Guatemala


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Comments (7)

By reading others comments about such a beautiful and mystical place makes me feel like it's a place that one 'must' visit. I hope to see it in it's awe one day..that would be a 'gem' of a gift! thanks to all the people that have let us see through their eyes.

Posted by erin on December 19,2012 | 08:03 AM

By reading others comments about such a beautiful and mystical place makes me feel like it's a place that one 'must' visit. I hope to see it in it's awe one day..that would be a 'gem' of a gift! thanks to all the people that have let us see through their eyes.

Posted by erin on December 19,2012 | 08:03 AM

After living in the department of Peten and having traveled to Tikal by car, bus,back of truck, motorcycle and bicycle I can say it is an incredible experience. However, if you have the time a trip to some of the other less visited ruins is highly recommended. Take the 5 day hike to El Mirador (the largest ruin site) or a day trip to Yaxha and Nakbe. Camping at Yaxha and El Mirador are experiences you will never forget.

And yes, 1491 is an absolute must read.

Posted by Daniel on August 16,2011 | 07:32 PM

If this city interests you, look up and read the book 1491—the best-selling study of the pre-Columbian Americas by Charles C. Mann. The world knows too little about this half of early history. Fasinating to see as I read. Thank you

Posted by Gayle Hardin on August 6,2011 | 12:23 PM

Tikal is a vary nice place to go i will like to go there one day.

Posted by B.M on February 10,2011 | 04:18 PM

28 PLACES TO SEE BEFORE YOU DIE...
Just like a fairy tale.Just imagine the feeling inside ourselves, in reading those articles is like living in a dimension of time for a little while...Bravo and Thank You Smithsonian for such beautiful articles and pictures about those places. SUPERBE et Merci. Lucien Alexandre Marion (Gatineau QC Canada)

Posted by Lucien Alexandre Marion on April 8,2010 | 01:43 PM



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