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The Beautiful and Bizarre Galapagos Islands

Evolution disciples and the merely curious can experience conspicuously adapted wildlife off the coast of Ecuador

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  • By Terence Monmaney
  • Smithsonian magazine, January 2008, Subscribe
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Galaacute;pagos Islands
Galápagos Islands (Aiyana Paterson-Zinkand, iStockphoto)

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"On the equator in The Galapagos."

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Giant tortoises lumber across the lava rocks, while iguanas defy desert stereotypes and plunge into the sea. The strange, conspicuously adapted wildlife that impressed Charles Darwin when he visited the Galápagos Islands in 1835—and that would later kindle his discovery of the process of evolution by natural selection—is still there. In fact, the Galápagos, 14 major and many smaller islands spanning the Equator 620 miles off the coast of Ecuador, remains the world's most biologically intact tropical archipelago.

But pollution, overfishing and development are harming efforts to conserve habitat and wildlife. A tourism boom is also taking its toll. The number of visitors has more than tripled in the past 15 years, to at least 145,000 in 2006. The islands are mostly under the control of Galapágos National Park, which restricts access to designated areas. Still, people over the years have unwittingly or deliberately introduced invasive life-forms that can undermine the natural order—some 750 alien plant species and 490 insect species, according to a 2007 report by the Charles Darwin Foundation. Scientists warn that the damage could be irreversible.

And yet the islands beckon. Evolution disciples should tread lightly, says Heather Hansen, co-author with Kimberly Lisagor of the soon-to-be published book Disappearing Destinations. To minimize the "Caribbeanesque chaos" of "uninvested tourists just stopping by for a day or two during a megacruise," Hansen recommends that travelers enlist only "outfitters that have a proven record of both environmental protection and a focus on enhancing the lives of the people who live there."


Giant tortoises lumber across the lava rocks, while iguanas defy desert stereotypes and plunge into the sea. The strange, conspicuously adapted wildlife that impressed Charles Darwin when he visited the Galápagos Islands in 1835—and that would later kindle his discovery of the process of evolution by natural selection—is still there. In fact, the Galápagos, 14 major and many smaller islands spanning the Equator 620 miles off the coast of Ecuador, remains the world's most biologically intact tropical archipelago.

But pollution, overfishing and development are harming efforts to conserve habitat and wildlife. A tourism boom is also taking its toll. The number of visitors has more than tripled in the past 15 years, to at least 145,000 in 2006. The islands are mostly under the control of Galapágos National Park, which restricts access to designated areas. Still, people over the years have unwittingly or deliberately introduced invasive life-forms that can undermine the natural order—some 750 alien plant species and 490 insect species, according to a 2007 report by the Charles Darwin Foundation. Scientists warn that the damage could be irreversible.

And yet the islands beckon. Evolution disciples should tread lightly, says Heather Hansen, co-author with Kimberly Lisagor of the soon-to-be published book Disappearing Destinations. To minimize the "Caribbeanesque chaos" of "uninvested tourists just stopping by for a day or two during a megacruise," Hansen recommends that travelers enlist only "outfitters that have a proven record of both environmental protection and a focus on enhancing the lives of the people who live there."

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Related topics: Travel Ecuador


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Comments (1)

why is this place so intresting xDDDD

Posted by yo mama on January 12,2011 | 02:05 PM

Thank you for encouraging the world to take a moment and see these wonders of the world. It has allowed me to realize how many I have seen. Also, to gather my friends and go and see the rest. So much to see and so little time. Above all do it as basic as possible or you will miss the local flavor that is what makes travel so much fun. Fancy hotels are fine, but do not let yourself be shielded from the real life of the local area.

Posted by Jim M. Muellner on January 8,2008 | 10:56 PM



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