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Our Imperiled Oceans: Victory at Sea
Christopher Pala
The world's largest protected area, established this year in the remote Pacific, points the way to restoring marine ecosystems
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Christopher Pala is based in Hawaii and has been working as a reporter since he graduated from the University of Geneva in 1974. He has covered stories in New Jersey, California, Puerto Rico, the Caribbean, West Africa, Russia and Central Asia. Pala is also the author of The Oddest Place on Earth: Rediscovering the North Pole.
What made you want to write about Kiribati's marine reserve?
I heard a tiny report from Radio New Zealand announcing that Kiribati had decided to expand its Phoenix Islands Protected Area and thus make it the largest in the world. At the time, I was already planning to go to Tarawa to write a story on invasive algae for the New York Times, with a grant from the Fund for Investigative Journalism.
What was your favorite moment during your reporting?
Snorkeling in the islands off Tarawa and knowing there was even more fish in the Phoenix Islands.
When did the idea of marine preservation begin to develop?
Polynesian societies were well versed in the population dynamics of fish and knew when to hold back their fishing. If they didn't, starvation could ensue, for seafood was their main source of protein. In Hawaii, some violators were punished with death. It was the colonial process that turned fishing into a free-for-all, and since World War II, the technology for fishing has become so effective that fish stocks have dropped dramatically, prompting a backlash in the Pacific and a return to the ancient conservation methods before it was too late. Because the original inhabitants of the Caribbean have been wiped out, no such knowledge and tradition exists there, and the result is that the Caribbean reefs have lost most of their coral cover and fish populations and are in much worse shape than those in the Pacific.
Were you able to get up-close to the marine life? If so, could you describe some of your experiences?
Snorkeling off Tarawa, I saw giant Napoleon wrasses and other highly prized fish, larger than anything I'd seen before.
Was there anything fun or interesting that didn't make the final draft of the story?
The story of how Greg Stone persuaded the Kiribati government to create the reserve was mostly excised. It provided an object lesson on how a complete outsider can help a community realize its interests.
Christopher Pala is based in Hawaii and has been working as a reporter since he graduated from the University of Geneva in 1974. He has covered stories in New Jersey, California, Puerto Rico, the Caribbean, West Africa, Russia and Central Asia. Pala is also the author of The Oddest Place on Earth: Rediscovering the North Pole.
What made you want to write about Kiribati's marine reserve?
I heard a tiny report from Radio New Zealand announcing that Kiribati had decided to expand its Phoenix Islands Protected Area and thus make it the largest in the world. At the time, I was already planning to go to Tarawa to write a story on invasive algae for the New York Times, with a grant from the Fund for Investigative Journalism.
What was your favorite moment during your reporting?
Snorkeling in the islands off Tarawa and knowing there was even more fish in the Phoenix Islands.
When did the idea of marine preservation begin to develop?
Polynesian societies were well versed in the population dynamics of fish and knew when to hold back their fishing. If they didn't, starvation could ensue, for seafood was their main source of protein. In Hawaii, some violators were punished with death. It was the colonial process that turned fishing into a free-for-all, and since World War II, the technology for fishing has become so effective that fish stocks have dropped dramatically, prompting a backlash in the Pacific and a return to the ancient conservation methods before it was too late. Because the original inhabitants of the Caribbean have been wiped out, no such knowledge and tradition exists there, and the result is that the Caribbean reefs have lost most of their coral cover and fish populations and are in much worse shape than those in the Pacific.
Were you able to get up-close to the marine life? If so, could you describe some of your experiences?
Snorkeling off Tarawa, I saw giant Napoleon wrasses and other highly prized fish, larger than anything I'd seen before.
Was there anything fun or interesting that didn't make the final draft of the story?
The story of how Greg Stone persuaded the Kiribati government to create the reserve was mostly excised. It provided an object lesson on how a complete outsider can help a community realize its interests.

Victory At Sea was a great article. After looking at the map of marine protected areas, I was wondering if Nantucket Sound (off of Cape Cod, Ma.) is a protected area.There are plans for a possible "wind farm" there. My fear is that it would disturb the bottom to such an extent that marine life would be affected. Any ideas?
Posted by Kathleen Kelliher on September 4,2008 | 07:38AM
Thank you for your kind words. I'm no expert on Nantucket, but I can tell you that overfishing is the big problem facing the oceans, so installing wind turbines should have very minimal effect on the marine life.
Posted by chris pala on October 12,2008 | 04:40PM
Hi Chris, I've read many of your articles since coming upon the one related to the PIPA. I'm currently a graduate student at the University of Washington School of Marine Affairs in Seattle and am focusing my thesis on the PIPA. I'm still trying to develop the angle with which to approach the topic. Having more of an inside grasp on the situation, do you have any recommendations or contacts that I could pursue? Any information you could provide would be greatly appreciated. Keep up the great writing! Turner
Posted by Turner Pittkin on February 12,2009 | 08:22PM