Australia Has a Surprisingly Successful Truffle Industry. This New Study Could Explain Why
Researchers examined hundreds of soil samples to uncover why the expensive fungi are thriving in the country
Black truffles are coveted by foodies and chefs around the world for their rich, earthy aroma. The rare mycorrhizal fungi (Tuber melanosporum), which grow close to the root of trees, are native to the limestone-rich soils of Southern Europe. But one of the world’s largest producers of truffles is actually Australia.
Truffles were introduced to Australia 25 years ago, when the first host trees with T. melanosporum spores were planted there. Since then, the country's truffle industry has boomed, and Australia is now the fourth-largest producer of the prized fungi, with some orchards’ yields surpassing those of European countries. Now, a new study explains why black truffles have managed to thrive there.
Gregory Bonito, a mycologist at Michigan State University and study co-author, tells Petra Stock at the Guardian that understanding truffles was a “tricky proposition” because so much happens underground.
“You grow a tree like an apple, you can see the flower and then the fruits,” he says. “But below ground, it’s a different story, because it’s harder to follow.”
So, to learn more about what environmental conditions lead to the success of truffles, Bonito and his team analyzed the microbial diversity in soils from 24 truffle orchards across Australia, France, Spain and Italy. They collected spoonfuls of soil under and near truffle-infected trees over the course of two years, ending up with 522 samples for genetic analysis. Their findings were published in the journal Applied and Environmental Microbiology on April 3.
The researchers found that the Australian soils had less fungal diversity. DNA sequencing showed that European soils had 6,575 genetically distinct types of fungi, while Australian samples had 4,415. Australian orchards also had 75 percent fewer species of mycorrhizal fungi, and T. melanosporum was over-represented in the soils’ mycorrhizal community compared to samples from Europe. Essentially, this means that black truffles in Australia have less competition from other fungi over their symbiotic relationship with trees.
By the numbers: Truffle species
- Of the 180 or so known truffle species, only 13 are of commercial interest. Black truffles, one of the most coveted, usually cost between $800 to $1,500 per pound.
Bonito notes that the success of black truffles in Australia could also be due to other factors. “Some people say it could be due to climate factors,” he says in a statement. “Other people say it's because of their water, or how they prune, or some secret formula of their management regime.
“This research suggests there may be some bigger ecological factors working in their favor as well,” he adds.
The Guardian reports that Australian growers are already looking over the study’s findings. Stuart Dunbar, a farmer who holds the record for the largest cultivated truffle, explains to the outlet that a successful crop depends on multiple factors, including temperature, soil structure, water, expert timing and “elbow grease."
“A truffle’s goal in life is pretty much like a fruit,” he says. “A truffle wants to be eaten, primarily by a pig, dug up and eaten when its spores are perfectly ripe, and it gets spread through the forest.”
Next, the researchers plan to analyze microbial diversity in truffle orchards in North America and other Southern Hemisphere countries to see if there are similar patterns elsewhere.
“The first country where black truffles were successfully cultivated outside Europe, in the 1980s, was the U.S.,” Bonito says in the statement. However, its yields are not as high as Australia’s.
This study could help explain why, he adds.