The Cypress Grill

At a seasonal herring shack in North Carolina, the house specialty evokes memories of an earlier era

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As long as herring are still around, he tells me, "we'll eat our share," and in his voice I sense the fear of a fishless Friday. "Sometimes we almost get to the point where we want to come in the middle of the week, but we don't. Looking forward to it just makes these fish better."

That, I figure, and looking back.

By T. Edward Nickens


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