Cipolletta has gotten there first, and now the couple climb to a tree-high platform to watch in safety. As calves scurry alongside their mothers, a pair of young bulls jostle for dominance by locking tusks and shoving hard. Ignoring the ruckus, other elephants kneel by the mineral-rich water and drink. Calves wallow merrily in the mud until they look like chocolate elephants. Darkness arrives and a full moon turns the forest opening a ghostly silver. Greer and Cipolletta settle in for the night under their mosquito nets as the elephants’ growling, rumbling, screaming and trumpeting echo around the bai. "Every time I’m at the bai," Greer says, "it’s a magnificent feeling, and it gives me a sense of optimism that there is the chance to have some long-term success."