The Rain in Spain Stays Mainly on the... Sierra Nevadas?

Traveling to Andalusia after the wettest winter in decades brings unexpected surprises to a hike through Spain's southern region

Andalusia offers abundant trails, with one-fifth of its land under government protection. (Marina Koestler Ruben)

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We made for the shortest route toward the tree line, and with that, we were back on the trail—or a trail, at least. It was a dirt road marked with a single, simple inspiring sign: “Parque Nacional.” Naturally, this being Spain, the path led us to a field of bulls. They were sedate (among the bulls weakened by the rain?), and we dropped our precautionary rocks and passed without incident.

Soon, at long last, as we wound our way down a series of switchbacks, we were thrilled to find that we had our first view of Trevélez. We looked down happily at the flat-roofed, whitewashed buildings below, terraced in their alto, medio and bajo districts.

The next time we woke before sunrise, it was to catch a bus out of the Sierra Nevadas. We had trekked from Pitres to Trevélez in ten hours. By bus, we made it back in 20 minutes.


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