Snapshot: Deer Isle
Natural beauty abounds on Maine’s second-largest coastal island
- By Siobhan Roth
- Smithsonian.com, May 18, 2008, Subscribe
Origins: People have lived on Deer Isle and its dozens of rocky surrounding islands since at least 11,000 B.C. Around 8,000 B.C., a culture arose that included sophisticated tools, land and sea trade, and made extensive use of the islands' rich clam and mussel beds. Lore, if not the archaeological record, suggests that Vikings explored the islands in the 11th century A.D. By the 16th century, several Algonquin-speaking groups had settled the area, most of whose members left or fell to disease or battle after the first white settlers arrived in 1762.
The appeal: Lobstering, rather than tourism, remains Deer Isle's primary economic engine. And thanks to the Haystack Mountain School of Crafts, which draws artists from all over the world—dozens of whom have made the island their home—art may be the second-largest industry. Stonington, the island's largest town, reflects that balance with an old-fashioned harbor crowded with lobster boats and a main street dotted with galleries. Perhaps because of this balance, Deer Isle remains a place to enjoy natural beauty rather than a tourist Mecca filled with t-shirt shops and noise. The air, cooled by the Atlantic and filtered by dense woods of white pine and birch, energizes visitors who hike its many trails or explore its coves and islands by kayak or sailboat, as well as those who choose to simply sit and enjoy the quiet. Bald eagles, osprey, a panoply of duck species and other water birds make frequent appearances. Harbour porpoises are also known to summer here. The bracing air (and chilly waters) rouse big appetites for the local bounty. Deer Isle is known around the world for its sweet Maine lobsters and fat clams. Natives and veteran visitors seek out succulent rock and peekytoe crabs. In recent decades, organic farms and dairies have added to the feast. Sheep and goat farming, practiced here since the late-18th century, continue to provide fresh cheese, wool and meat. And of course, wild Maine blueberries are everywhere during the summer.
Interesting historical facts: Deer Isle granite was used in the Manhattan Bridge, the Boston Museum of Fine Arts, and John F. Kennedy's grave at Arlington National Cemetery, among other notable sites. The Defender, which won the first America's Cup in 1895, was crewed entirely by Deer Isle residents.
Famous sons or daughters: Buckminster Fuller, inventor of the geodesic dome, and famed park architect Frederick Law Olmsted spent summers on Deer Isle.
Deer Isle was also home to the woman considered to be Maine's oldest. Born in 1800, Salome Sellers, a direct descendant of the Mayflower settlers and stoic matriarch of an island family, lived through two wars and several epidemics. She died in 1909 at 108. Her farm house is now a museum.
Who goes there? Deer Isle has about 3,000 year-round residents. Perhaps twice that number visit between May and October. In addition to the scions of families that have been summering here since the industrial revolution, Deer Isle draws nature-loving vacationers from all over the world, as well as hundreds of artists and art-lovers who support Haystack, the island's 40 or so galleries, and the Opera House, which produces live performances and serves as the islands' only movie theater. Unlike many holiday destinations, the pace on Deer Isle is resolutely mellow and friendly. At the entrance to the Island Country Club, the sign says, "Public Welcome." Visitors to Deer Isle are happy to leave the cocktail-party circuit to Kennebunkport and the honky-tonk bar scene to other points south.
Then & Now? In 1792, Nathaniel Scott started a ferry service to bring people to and from the mainland. The Scott family ran the ferry until 1939, when the suspension bridge that still connects Deer Isle to the rest of Maine was completed.
Siobhan Roth is a regular Smithsonian.com contributor.
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Comments (9)
"My Aunt Kate and Uncle Raymond Meunier had a summer home at Sylvesters Cove. Spent wonderful summer during 1940-1947 sailing with cousins Ted and Joan..."
Small world. My mother, Audrey Tam from Kauai, Hawaii, attended Skidmore with Joan and spent parts of at least one summer on Deer Isle with your aunt, uncle and cousins. And she corresponded with Aunt Kate (as she was also known to us who only knew her from the tin of maple syrup she would send to us every Christmas) yearly until Aunt Kate could no longer write. Then Howard kept up the annual tradition. My brother, in fact, was named after Howard.
I met Ted a few times; once when he passing through Honolulu while he was in the Navy, then later when he ran a hunting shop in Makawao, Maui. I also met Joan in 1978 when I was attending the University of Oregon and my mother came up for a visit. We stopped some store in Portland where she worked for a brief visit.
Posted by Bob Chinn on September 7,2009 | 09:47 PM
Salome Sellers is always referred to as Aunt Salome. She is one of my ancestors. My aunt, Dorothy Carmen, was one of the founders of The Deer Isle Historical Society which is housed at the Salome Sellers home, now a museum. My daughters,mother, aunts and I were all present when the Daughters of the American Revolution placed a commemorative plaque on the house. My daughter, Heather Cormier, has archived all of our family portraits on DVDs and is the keeper of all things historical for our families. Her daughter, Emily, at age 15 published a book, Emily's Wildflowers of Deer Isle. We cherish our island and hold its people and history very close.
Posted by Nancy Knowlton on January 20,2009 | 06:37 AM
I repeat what Capt. Bill said, as there are no dairies or goat meat enterprises here, although several families have goats and sell the milk and cheese. We have one small organic farm on the Island (White Birch)but the main organic farming is in Brooksville and East Blue Hill across the bridge on the mainland. It would be a good idea for your writers to get their facts straight before writing such an article! Most of the rest of the article is accurate. No mention was made of our Friday Farmer's Market in Stonington, one of the largest and best in the entire state.
Posted by Cathy Hart on July 22,2008 | 02:20 PM
My Aunt Kate and Uncle Raymond Meunier had a summer home at Sylvesters Cove. Spent wonderful summers during 1940- 1947 sailing with cousins Ted and Joan. Long lasting memories.
Posted by B. Denault on June 12,2008 | 03:22 PM
Neat article...reminded me of the numerous times over the years that my husband and I have stopped off at Deer Island in a landing boat from Schooner Nathaniel Bowditch. We spent one day of our honeymoon exploring the "downtown" of the island. It is also the first place we touched land on our week-long cruise that included 9/11. We picked up a newspaper at the little market there by the dock to find out what really happened that day. Our memories of Deer Island span the spectrum end to end, but we were always happy to return to this delightful spot.
Posted by Nancy Miville on June 3,2008 | 10:59 PM
No mention is made of the people. They are true down-easters with a wary eye towards outsiders, but friendly and helpful if the attitude proves worthy. Digging clams and lobster fishing makes for a real tough way to make a living. They appreciate those who take the time to understand that and deal fairly with them.
Posted by Howard Morgan on May 29,2008 | 08:43 PM
A few errors. Mostly spruce trees not pines. No dairies that I know of and can't remember the last time that I saw a sheep or any goats on the island. Perhaps there are a few wandering around somewhere.
Posted by Capt Bill on May 28,2008 | 10:09 PM
I bet that would be a great article on this hardy matriarcal female who survived to the grand ole age of 108, in a time when these would have been phenomenal for anyone to survive today let alone in that day of health care. I appreciate the history and knowledge that your magazine brings to those of us who are not intrepid historians. Just like the guy who is criss/crossing that area of Africa seeing what is missing or new in such a small section of the forest and how we are impacting our environment. Thank you,Smithsonian
Posted by Patti Gant on May 21,2008 | 02:38 PM
This snapshot brought back remembrances of staying there in the late 60's at my Uncle's cabin in the woods right on a hill overlooking the water. Search for the key under the porch. Soak the leather on the pump to make it work. Dig for clams in mud over our ankles. Steamers and lobsters for dinner! My grown children still talk of Deer Isle! Thank you!!
Posted by Dave OConnell on May 21,2008 | 10:36 AM