Morocco’s Extraordinary Donkeys

The author returns to Fez to explore the stubborn animal’s central role in the life of this desert kingdom

Working like "little pistons," donkeys keep the medina humming. An estimated 100,000 people in the Fez area depend on the animals for their livelihood. (Eric Sander)
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I left without that small, sturdy donkey, who was undoubtedly named H'mar, but I know that if I return to that field in Khemis-des Zemamra years from now, I will find another brown donkey for sale with the exact same air of permanence and the exact same name.

Susan Orlean is working on a biography of the canine actor Rin Tin Tin. She is considering adding a donkey to her household. Photographer Eric Sander lives in Paris.

Editor's Note: This article has been revised to make the following correction: The Prophet Muhummad gave advise on the width of roads. It was not specified in the Koran as the earlier version of this article stated.


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