The Architectural Wonders of Bagan
Nearly a thousand years after the Burmese kingdom was formed, visitors enjoy panoramic views of the sprawling city
- By Lucinda Moore
- Smithsonian magazine, January 2008, Subscribe
On the banks of the Irrawaddy River, more than 3,000 temples stretch across a 30-square-mile plain in Pagan, Myanmar (formerly Burma). Most were constructed between 1057 and 1287 during a building frenzy initiated by King Anawrahta, who formed the first Burmese kingdom in 1044.
Nearly a thousand years after Anawrahta's reign, visitors can climb to the top terrace of his Shwesandaw Paya, or "Sunset Pagoda," to enjoy panoramic views of the sprawling city. Many flock to monasteries, which display ornate murals, such as the Ananda Temple's 554 scenes from past lives of the Buddha.
Over the centuries, Pagan's architectural wonders have survived pillaging by armies, as well as natural disasters, including a devastating earthquake in 1975. But many experts worry that they may not withstand the inauthentic restorations recently sanctioned by the country's military junta. "The real crime is that the temples are being rebuilt without attention to their original appearance," says University of Texas art historian Donald Stadtner.
Still worse crimes are being committed against Burmese citizens. After bloody attacks by the junta on monks and other pro-democracy protesters in 2007, some dissidents are asking prospective tourists to carefully consider whether the regime deserves their monetary support. Those who do decide to visit should check State Department advisories before venturing into the region (called Bagan by the current government). If history is any guide, Pagan will endure. Its majestic skyline, studded with gold, white and earth-red temples topped by bell-shaped towers and gilded spires, remains one of Southeast Asia's most exquisite sites.
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Related topics: Travel Burma
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Comments (4)
As Steven points out, it is largely a Western concept things must be preserved as originally made. In Vietnam where I live, neon, chrome and mirrored glass - what we consider kitsch - is preferred over "traditional architecture," places preserved only for tourists.
The second myth is travel funds the junta. Nothing could be further from the truth, they are doing just fine with their energy sales to China and could really care less if foreigners "boycott" their country. Rather, travelers should visit the country and provide some sense of comfort to locals rather than leaving them feel isolated.
Posted by Patrick on November 1,2011 | 10:20 PM
The so-called crime of “temples being rebuilt without attention to their original appearance” is common in all Southeast Asian countries, not just Myanmar (Burma). This is because Buddhists believe that by renovating old stupas, monasteries and other Buddhist sites they are making merit for their next incarnation. This has been a tradition since Buddhism came to the region. There is no pressure on Buddhist laymen who donate money for the renovation of these sites to have original designs followed. On the contrary, by “improving” on the structures – making them larger and more elaborate – Buddhists believe they are earning even more merit than if the structures were restored to their original forms.
Moreover, it is very easy to travel in Myanmar without putting money into government coffers. Nearly all accommodation is now privately owned, and privately-owned forms of transportation are as common as they are convenient.
Posted by Steven on April 27,2011 | 08:16 AM
There are two Buddha statues, which are 2000 year old, were ravaged in 2001 taliban incidence in Bamiyan. It’s approximately 3 to 4 thousand meter form Ghazni with road filled with memories of ice-covered mountains, followed by gravelly aridness, gorges, further rock-strewn ledges, rocks in multicoloured forms and hues.
For more details, refer : http://www.journeyidea.com/bamyan-pristine-abode-of-the-colossal-buddhas-part-i/
Posted by Chris on August 25,2009 | 08:52 AM
Or it may by destroyed like the Buddhas of Bamiyan if history is any guide.
Posted by Scott on January 15,2008 | 05:38 PM