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How to Tour Jane Austen’s English Countryside

Follow in the footsteps of Mr. Darcy and the Bennet sisters and take in the manors and gardens of rural England

(Courtesy of Flickr user StarryJen / Poodles Rock / Corbis)

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And, of course, there’s the romance. “Principally, it has to be because of those two wonderful characters [Elizabeth and Darcy] and the nature of their relationship,” West says. “People would aspire to it even if they haven’t experienced it themselves.”  

Whether or not Austen ever experienced true love, however, is a matter of some discrepancy. The author’s sister Cassandra burned much of the writer’s most telling correspondence after Jane’s death. But that’s only half of the problem. “She was by nature a secretive person,” says West. “The reason we don’t know about her is that Jane Austen preserved her identity very carefully.”

While writing at her home in Chawton in 1809, Austen intentionally preserved a squeaky hinge on her door so she could hide her pages before interlopers could announce themselves. She was equally discreet when publishing her early novels, choosing to use “By a Lady” for the title page of Sense and Sensibility in 1811, and “By the Author of Sense and Sensibility” for Pride and Prejudice in 1813.

From grand aristocratic estates to rustic local farm shops, there’s no better way to discover the mysterious Austen and the bucolic inspirations behind Pride and Prejudice than to visit the small cluster of English counties she called home.

St. Nicholas Church
Steventon, Hampshire

Every good Austen novel ends with a wedding, and it’s not hard to imagine the quaint country affairs that captivated the author taking place at the mottled stone church of St. Nicholas in Steventon. Constructed around 1200, the secluded Norman structure, with its three-feet-thick walls and medieval paintings, was a familiar sight for Austen, whose family inhabited the nearby rectory and attended mass at the church. Austen lived in Steventon for her first 25 years, during which time she wrote the majority of Pride and Prejudice, Sense and Sensibility and Northanger Abbey. The rectory was demolished shortly after her death in 1817—a lime tree planted by Jane’s elder brother James still marks the spot where it stood—but St. Nicholas remains unchanged.

Chatsworth House

Before “Downton Abbey” there was Mr. Darcy’s Pemberley, and even a chagrinned Elizabeth Bennet could not deny the house’s charms. “She had never seen a place for which nature had done more,” writes Austen. “At that moment she felt that to be mistress of Pemberley might be something!” Some scholars credit the palatial Chatsworth House—home of the Duke and Duchess of Cavendish for 16 generations—as Austen’s inspiration behind the fictional estate. In fact, the 2005 film version of Pride & Prejudice, starring Keira Knightley, cast Chatsworth in the role. Visitors can peruse the house’s 30 rooms, stroll the 105-acre garden or take in the extensive private art collection­—including the dramatic sculpture gallery featured in the Hollywood film.

Manydown Farm Shop
Basingstoke, Hampshire

Located near the town of Basingstoke, Manydown Park was the house where a teenage Austen first danced with Tom Lefroy, an impetuous suitor who later became Lord Chief Justice of Ireland.  “Imagine to yourself everything most profligate and shocking in the way of dancing and sitting down together,” Austen wrote to her sister Cassandra in 1796. Sadly, Lefroy was shipped home to the Emerald Isle to curb the budding romance.  Six years later, Austen was again embroiled in a romantic intrigue at Manydown after receiving a proposal from the wealthy, younger Harris Bigg-Wither, whose family owned the house. Although she initially accepted, Austen scandalously reneged just hours later, then fled the scene. Manydown Park was destroyed in the 1960s, but Manydown Farm Shop, located on the estate, offers an authentic slice of the Hampshire countryside—complete with homemade meat pies, local Loosehanger cheese and lamb raised on Manydown’s 200-acre farm.  

Godmersham Park Walk and Heritage Centre

“To sit in idleness over a good fire in a well-proportioned room is a luxurious sensation,” said Austen in 1800. Her appreciation for life’s finer things—despite a humble upbringing—made the writer a fervent admirer of Godmersham Park­, the sprawling brick mansion inherited by her brother, Edward, who was adopted by Thomas Knight, a wealthy cousin of George Austen’s, and became heir of his estate. Jane was a frequent guest at the house, where she spent time playing with her favorite nephew, George; sitting in the library; and revising Sense and Sensibility. Today, travelers can follow a footpath—which offers views of Godmersham Park—from Village Hall to St. Lawrence the Martyr church, where Edward Austen is commemorated, and the Godmersham Park Heritage Centre, with its small collection of Austen-related artifacts, including the diary of Jane’s niece, Fanny Knight.


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