The Pilgrims Before Plymouth
A tour of the Dutch city of Leiden yields new insights into a chapter of the Thanksgiving story not taught in schools
- By John Hanc
- Smithsonian.com, October 19, 2011

(Leiden American Pilgrim Museum)
We begin at the Leiden American Pilgrim Museum on tiny Beschuitsteeg (Biscuit) Alley in the city center. Established in 1997, the museum is located in a 14th-century building—one of the oldest datable houses in Leiden, built in 1367-70. Museum founder Bangs greets us: Although a native of Oregon, he has lived in Leiden for over 30 years, and with a wardrobe change into early 17th-century robes, he could easily be envisioned as a prosperous burgher in a portrait by Rembrandt (himself a Leiden native).
While no Pilgrims lived in this house, William Brewster, one of the more prominent members of the church, is believed to have visited here in the early 1600s. In addition to period furniture, the museum’s collection includes beautiful Delft tiles along the baseboard, and objects from daily life, some of which belonged to the Pilgrims. Bangs shows us what he wryly calls “the historian’s favorite tool”—a nit-pick, or lice comb, from the 1500s. Also in the collection are pipes, including one made by a Pilgrim for smoking tobacco, which was becoming all the rage in Northern Europe, and perhaps most surprising, a number of toys. The existence of these items—which include a silver toy soldier, jacks made from bones, and miniature pewter and pottery dishes—leads historians to conclude that Pilgrim children were encouraged to play, a view at odds with the stern, don’t-spare-the-rod parenting style commonly ascribed to the Pilgrims. Bangs paraphrases the Pilgrim intellectual and spiritual leader John Robinson on this point: “He said in essence, ‘Don’t let your children grow up too soon.’ ”





Comments (12)
Thanks for your hospitality. We feel our visit to you and Leiden on March 28, 2012 was the highlight of our trip. Relative William Brewster has been discussed in my family for years so this trip was important for me, as his relative.
I would like to keep in touch with you especially concerning the possible erection of a plaque of William Brewster in Leiden. We would also like to know how to contact you on line. Thanks again Dr. Jeremy for a lovely visit. Pam and Mike Blodgett
San Jose, California
Posted by Pamela Blodgett on April 18,2012 | 02:18 PM
I would like to search my heritage on my father's side, Caillouet. Which product would you recommend?
Posted by tania caillouet on February 1,2012 | 11:53 AM
Wasn't the first Thanksgiving really just outside Jamestowne? Why doesn't an institution such as this correct the record?
Posted by Bob Leitch on November 27,2011 | 11:22 PM
Always interested to hear stories of the pilgrims, being descended from the Elder Wm Brewster. Having heard that we were descendants while growing up helped to spark my interest in geneology. After going down the wrong line because of misinformation from a previous family researcher I discovered that although we were indeed descended from Wm Brewster, our direct line did NOT come over on the Mayflower. Wm's son that we descended from brought his family over with a later group. I believe that one of the celebrities that did research for one of the TV shows was also from this line and this was not revealed in the show as it aired.
Posted by Leann Strobel on November 26,2011 | 02:06 AM
My first maternal ancesters, Rutger Joesten Van Brunt family, came to New Amsterdam in 1620. I'd like to know more of their Dutch heritage. Cornelia Van Brunt born about 1846, issue Kate or Catherine Philips Stears, issue Grace Foster, married Edmond Watkins, issue Olive Watkins married Ernest Sanchez, my father.
Jan Brunt, schoolmaster at Leyden, published an arithmetic the third edition being "continuation of the rudiments of arithmetic, composed in questions and answers for the use of schools. Is Leyden the same place as Leiden?
Is any other writing published other than the Genealogy of the Van Brunt Family; of this I have a copy.
Posted by Barbara G. Sanchez on November 23,2011 | 10:38 PM
very well writen.
Posted by Danielle on November 23,2011 | 05:04 PM
There is a historical inaccuracy in this article (very surprised The Smithsonian did not do their homework on this) 1574 was not the climactic end of the 80 -year war, which lasted from 1568 until 1648 when the treaty ending the conflict was signed. The "war" was really a long drawn out conflict for political dominance between Spain and the Catholic church on one side and the Protestants and regional noblemen and independent cities on the other. By 1580 Spain had lost the battle for the Norhtern half on the country, by 1648 they were no longer a factor in everything that today constitues all of Belgium and the Netherlands. The Southern half took longer because the Catholic church had a more dominant position there and still does, compared to the North which was predominantly Protestant.
Posted by Bram van der Meij on November 23,2011 | 01:30 PM
My ggggggggrandfather was William Bradford. It was sad to know that he was so persecuted because of his religious beliefs in his own country (England) that he was thrown into jail there. That's why he, and others, fled to Holland, and later to America. Those were some brave souls. Freedom from religious persecution is most certainly a bedrock of the United States. It's what gives us the right to believe--or not believe, today.
Posted by Esme on November 21,2011 | 05:24 PM
To get information on John Dunham, go to the website www.familysearch.org and you will find data on the Dunham family going back to 1404 along with all the other families that marry into the Dunham line.
Posted by J.R. Cusick on November 12,2011 | 04:18 PM
Carlos: When nation-wide celebration of Thankgiving in its present form started, as proclaimed by President Abraham Lincoln, the need for a nostalgic image of family unity couldn't have been greater; and the idea people had of the Pilgrims and Indians coming together peacefully in 1621 provided an idealized sense of national integrity welcoming everyone, that contrasted greatly with the circumstances of the Civil War. You will find an excellent answer to your question in James Baker's recent book, Thanksgiving, The Biography of an American Holiday (University Press of New England, 2009).
Madlen Piccioni: There is some information about the Dunhams in Leiden, with a lot about the lives of the Pilgrims there before they came to New England, in my book, Strangers and Pilgrims, Travellers and Sojourners - Leiden and the Foundations of Plymouth Plantation (Mayflower Society GSMD, 2009). Genealogical and other historical information about the early European settlers of Plymouth Colony is well presented in Robert Charles Anderson, The Pilgrim Migration, Immigrants to Plymouth Colony, 1620-1622 (NEHGS, 2004).
Posted by Jeremy Bangs on November 11,2011 | 04:37 AM
There were many colonies in early America: Spanish,Dutch French, Russian etc; Virgina, New Amsterdam etc.
Why do people---an schools--focus so much on the Pilgrims?
Posted by carlos on November 1,2011 | 11:44 AM
The first ancester of mine came to Plymoth from Leiden.
His name was John Dunham born in 1589 in England. Married Abigale Barlow[sometimes given as Abigal Ward] in LEIDEN oCT. 17,1619. dIED IN plymoth March 2, 1668 or 69.
Can you tell me where to find out more about him ?
Posted by madlen piccioni on October 28,2011 | 06:55 PM