The Historic Saloons of Central California
Not even rumors of apparitions could stop a group of eager drinking companions from investigating these ghost town bars
- By Matt Kettmann
- Smithsonian.com, June 24, 2011, Subscribe
(Page 2 of 2)
Sippin’ SLO
The second-longest operating bar in all of California is in San Miguel, a tiny town north of Paso Robles of under 2,000 people that popped up following the 1797 founding of Mission San Miguel, where the vineyard-tending padres kicked off the region’s now dominant winemaking industry. Located on the one main drag of Mission Street, the Elkhorn Bar, established during the gold rush year of 1853, is both the predecessor and sole remnant of a once freewheeling strip, where — according to owner Gary Brown — “14 bars and 13 brothels” served the soldiers of the nearby Camp Roberts during the run-up to World War II. “For some of those guys, this was one of the last places they ever were,” said Brown, who bought the bar about five years ago and has set about reminding everyone of its history.
That goes back to even before the days of Jesse James, who came to hide out with his gentlemanly uncle Drury James and soak his robbery-related wounds in the nearby hot springs, and extends through Prohibition, when the Elkhorn’s front was a barbershop and patrons would toss their hooch through the still existing trapdoor into the cellar when the cops arrived. Today, there are antique guns on the walls, framed newspaper clippings from World War II across from the bar, modern day moonshines for sale, and constant ghost tales to entertain ale drinkers between sips.
One patron, without prompting, explained that he’d seen wine glasses fly across the room and crash into the corner, then the bartender relayed a story about a woman who went down into the cellar to find a table full of Old West apparitions playing poker, and then Brown — who showed us the said cellar — explained that many folks had seen a man in olden dress wander across the back room, where the stage is now. And then there were the multiple occasions of phantom grabs of posteriors, as various people have reported being touched down low. “There are always guys pinching ass around here,” said Brown with a laugh, “but those times, there was no one around.” Fittingly freaked out, we fled the otherwise welcoming Elkhorn to our final destination for the evening, and the genesis for this entire trip, the Pine Street Saloon, just off the main square of downtown Paso Robles.
Owner Ron French has been vexed by the “supercharged dust particles” (his words) that his night vision security cameras had been picking up. “To me, I’m not a ghost believer,” he said early on in our correspondence, “but I have no explanation for this.”
First opened by Ron’s mother, Pat French, in 1971, the Pine Street Saloon ditched its old location in 2002 to move into the circa 1865 building next door. That was just in time to avoid the massive Paso Robles earthquake of 2003, which knocked down their old brick building but only tilted their new wooden structure. French, it turns out, might just be the most hospitable saloonkeeper on the planet, having refurbished the upstairs brothel rooms into a boardinghouse of sorts to accommodate overly inebriated guests and purchasing a limousine to drive such patrons home for free, so long as they’re within Paso Robles’ city limits.
After some early experiments with candles and cameras led by French, our crew wasn’t super convinced that there was anything too supernatural going on upstairs at the former brothel, so we explored Paso Robles on foot, eventually taking in pizza and some rounds of bowling before returning to the Pine Street around midnight. The next morning, I managed to yank out the dowsing rods, but we were in a hurry to hit the last three destinations on our tour, so skipped town before finding any answers to Ron’s supercharged dust problem.
Take the Long Way Home
Once a centrally located hub with general store, hotel, blacksmith shops, numerous residences and its own school district along the Butterfield Overland Mail stagecoach route — which connected the San Joaquin Valley to the San Luis Obispo County coast — Pozo is now on the road to pretty much nowhere, with just a fire station and saloon left over, making it about as purely Old West as it gets these days. The Pozo Saloon, founded in 1858, still serves olives in its beer, and today hosts on its back lawn some big-time concerts, from Snoop Doggy Dogg to Willie Nelson. On our visit, the owner Rhonda Beanway and her son Levi were busy working the grounds and cooking up delicious blue cheese and mushroom burgers in the kitchen, but chatted it up with us as our group worked its way through a gallon of beer, served in a big jar, and listened to the live three-piece rock band out back. “It’s kind of a hard sell to get people to drive this far,” said Rhonda, who purchased the bar with her husband in 1984 when the previous owners literally handed them the keys on their way out of town. “That’s why we started the concerts. You have to come with a specific purpose and then fall in love with it. But it is one of the last real things like that in San Luis Obispo County for sure.”
Properly back in the saloon saddle, we decided to brave the Pozo Summit road, a pretty easily passable dirt path through the Santa Lucia Mountains and down into the Carizzo Plain National Monument, where tule elk and pronghorn antelope frolic amid Chumash pictographs on a relict landscape that once typified the entire San Joaquin Valley. With clear, unimpeded views as far as the eye can see, the Carrizo is wickedly wondrous any time of year, but catching it in the green winter or the wildflower-popping spring just might change your life by reminding you that silent, solemn places still exist in our cluttered world.
We stuck to our last suds and some tasty cheeseburgers as the hour crept toward dark on this Sunday afternoon, and hit the road with a stunning sunset lighting the way. We pointed our cars home to Santa Barbara, and slipped into bed to enjoy what even the most adventurous Old Westerner also sought: a good night’s rest.
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Comments (9)
I was disappointed that you focused on the beer, food, and history without "catching" or even heavily investigating the ghosts! I was hoping for at least one encounter...guess I'll have to go, myself.
Posted by Laura Thompson on February 5,2012 | 05:43 PM
Very good artice, and quite a cooincidence. My Daughter Morgan just visited the Pine Street Saloon In Paso Robles and has a picture we need to post of erie writing on a mirror that reads "get out" in the strangest penmanship I have ever seen? James
Posted by James A. on July 27,2011 | 11:49 PM
As a tourist driving from San Jose, CA to Yosemite, my favorite stop has always been the Iron Door Saloon in Groveland, CA on HWY 120. I was very surprised the saloon was not included in this article, since its owners and the town of Groveland claim it is the oldest in California. I think it's even a state landmark!
Posted by Erin on July 22,2011 | 09:25 PM
Its funny to read about the Far western story because I was part of the paranormal investigation team that went in and caught all of the paranormal activity. That was the craziest investigation I have done!
Posted by Ryan on July 21,2011 | 05:40 PM
What an enjoyable article, it was great fun to visit these old saloons vicariously. I live on the east coast, but will swing by a couple of these places the next time I'm out west.
Posted by Cathy on July 21,2011 | 04:57 PM
I absolutely loved this story! Thank you and hope to make it out there one day!
Posted by Julie Trigg on July 21,2011 | 12:27 PM
Thanks for reading, Hal. Unfortunately, Sonoma County is about six hours from Santa Barbara, so it didn't make sense to include it on this road trip. But next time I am in Petaluma, save me a seat.
Posted by Matt Kettmann on July 15,2011 | 12:45 PM
I have been told by many of my Mother's relatives, over the years, that the fellow who drove the Stage between San Luis Obispo, Paso Robles and points north, in the 1860's, was my great, great grandfather.
What a surprise to see the memories of that in the pages of Smithsonian.com. The location fits, as Bradley, California was her birthplace, nearly a hundred years ago.
Posted by Joseph Melino on June 28,2011 | 07:08 PM
I was suprised that you overlooked the Washoe HOuse which is recognized as the oldest continually operating Roadhouse in Calif. It is located in Petaluma, Sonoma County CA.
It was built in 1859 and was a stage stop, roadhouse,and bordello.
It is still operating today. I patronized this place for over 50 years.
Give it a try, you will like it. Great atmosphere.
Posted by Hal Geyer on June 28,2011 | 03:23 PM