Has Gettysburg Kicked Its Kitsch Factor?
Historian Tony Horwitz travels to the Civil War battlefield and finds that even where time is frozen, it’s undergone welcome changes
- By Tony Horwitz
- Smithsonian magazine, April 2013, Subscribe
(Page 2 of 2)
Other small museums in town tell of the grim scene that prevailed in Gettysburg during and after the battle. Soldiers fought street to street and snipers set up quarters on porches and in attics, as civilians huddled in their cellars. Bullet holes are still visible in some homes, including one where a 20-year-old woman was shot dead while baking bread and hastily buried with dough on her hands. After the battle, the town became a makeshift morgue and hospital, and the stench—there were an estimated six million pounds of dead flesh, including thousands of horses, decomposing in the summer heat—lingered for months. “I felt as though we were in a strange and blighted land,” one resident wrote.
Signs of the slaughter still remained in November, when Lincoln came to dedicate the new soldiers’ cemetery at the edge of town. Those hired to gather and inter the dead, at the rate of $1.59 a body, hadn’t finished their work; the cemetery was filled with fresh mounds and unfilled graves. So Lincoln spoke from a temporary platform in the adjoining civilian cemetery. No one knows exactly where the platform stood. The soldiers’ cemetery is nonetheless a stirring site: a hilltop carpeted with simple blocks of stone, many of them marked “Unknown,” since Gettysburg was fought in an era before dog tags. Roughly a third of the Union dead couldn’t be identified.
At sunset, I descended Cemetery Ridge—entering a bar that is built into the historic slope. Hence the bar’s name—the Reliance Mine Saloon—and its ambience, which is roughly that of an underground shaft: windowless, low ceiling, a few mining tools on the wall. Though it’s the rare establishment in town that has no Civil War décor, the Reliance Mine is where battlefield guides, local historians and other buffs go to drink and discuss the 1860s the way others debate sports or politics.
“I’ll be here filling beers and listening to arguments over Stonewall Jackson or the difference between tintypes and daguerreotypes,” says the bartender, Eric Lindblade. Actually, he doesn’t just listen; he participates. “I’m a history dork like everyone else here.” In fact, he’s writing a regimental history of the 26th North Carolina, one of the units that almost broke the Union line in Pickett’s Charge.
The tavern’s most famous regular is historian William Frassanito, re- nowned for his groundbreaking analysis of Civil War photographs. His books form a shrine behind the bar and Frassanito holds informal office hours, beginning at 10:30 in the evening. He explained to me why Gettysburg is so visually well-documented: The battle occurred close to photographers based in Washington, and Union forces held the field at the end of combat. “Alexander Gardner and others had access here that they didn’t have after most battles,” he said.
We closed the bar at 1 a.m. and I marched the mile to my hotel, weighed down by Minié balls a relic shop owner had given me. In the morning, feeling rather battle-weary, I skirted the Civil War in favor of a different century. Just over a ridge from the military park lies the farm that Dwight Eisenhower used as a presidential retreat and a retirement home. It’s now a national historic site, managed by the park service, which provides ranger-guided tours.
Eisenhower first visited Gettysburg during World War I and commanded troops training for tank warfare on the field of Pickett’s Charge. He loved the landscape and in 1950 bought a 189-acre farm adjoining the battlefield park—the only home he and his wife, Mamie, ever owned. Though the remains of a Confederate soldier were found in the backyard, the farm is otherwise a curious time capsule of cold war America. The Eisenhowers transformed the farm’s neglected house into a plain brick Georgian, more suburban than rural and strikingly modest for the Supreme Commander of Allied Forces in World War II and 34th president of the United States.
The interior is likewise unassuming, apart from a formal living room crammed with porcelain, Ming vases, a Persian carpet from the shah of Iran and other expensive gifts (the Eisenhowers were the last White House occupants allowed to keep such gifts without paying for them). Ike considered the living room “stuffy” and preferred the glassed-in sun porch, where the Eisenhowers often ate on TV trays (Mamie liked soaps, Ike preferred “Bonanza” and “Gunsmoke”). He also used the sun porch as a painting studio and a number of his landscapes and portraits hang in the house. But most of the décor reflects Mamie’s down-home tastes. Though the daughter of a millionaire, she loved cheap knickknacks, including Hummels, a plate she bought for $2.61 at the battlefield Stuckey’s and plastic presidential figurines she collected from cereal boxes.
Downstairs is a kitchen filled with green linoleum and appliances from the “I Love Lucy” era, Ike’s den (books, old weapons, fishing flies) and items such as a rotary phone (EDgewood 4-4454) that bring a wave of nostalgia to anyone born before 1960. “A lot of visitors say they feel like they’re back in their grandparents’ house,” ranger Rick Lemmers told me.
But life here wasn’t quite so homey as it first appears. During Ike’s presidency, particularly during his recu- peration from a heart attack in 1955, the farm served as a temporary White House. Ike met with de Gaulle, Khrushchev and other leaders and was guarded by Secret Service agents (whose headquarters in a milk barn included a safe that held the satchel holding nuclear codes). Ike also turned the property into a major cattle farm, which he liked showing off to world leaders.
The house and gardens, which include Ike’s putting green and skeet range, are not only a museum piece of 1950s Republicanism. They also offer panoramic views of the Pennsylvania countryside free of monuments, cannons and tourist buses. I felt a similar sense of escape that afternoon as I drove west from town, past rolling farms, orchards and picture-book barns. About eight miles from Gettysburg, I followed signs leading to the Adams County Winery, one of many vineyards that have sprung up in Pennsylvania in recent years.
Housed in a converted barn, the tasting room has old beams and an ambience very different from the Reliance Mine Saloon I’d visited the night before. Visitors listened raptly as a “wine-tasting associate” intoned: “Pairs nicely with cheesecake....Sweet, with a dry finish....Would you like to sample the chardonnay?”
I did, as well as a wine made from blueberries, another from apples. Not exactly grand cru, but a nice and unexpected break from burial trenches and battle-themed tourism. Then I studied the labels. The blueberry wine was Yankee Blue, another I’d sampled was Rebel Red. A third was named Traveller, after Robert E. Lee’s horse.
“We’re the official winery of the 150th commemoration at Gettysburg,” explained Andy Mello, a wine associate, handing me a fresh glass. He brought out a bottle with a mournful picture of Lincoln on the label. “This is our hallmark wine. It’s called Tears of Gettysburg.”
I doubt this is what Lincoln had in mind when he urged us, “the living,” to finish the work of those who “gave the last full measure of devotion” at Gettysburg. But I still had some Civil War sites to see, and Andy assured me the wine was an appropriate sacrament for my pilgrimage. “Have some of this in your system,” he said, “and you’ll be ready to go back into battle.”
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Comments (9)
In regard to Tony Horwitz’s recommendation of “advance study” before visiting Gettysburg (“Best Small Towns”): A source that should not be overlooked is historian Douglas Southall Freeman’s three-volume classic, Lee’s Lieutenants: A Study in Command (1944). His detailed, evocative chronicling of the battles of the Army of Northern Virginia include (Vol.3) a spellbinding account of the Gettysburg engagements, from the confederate perspective. Lee’s Lieutenants is a great read, even for one who isn’t preparing to visit a Civil War battlefield.
Posted by James Shaver on May 6,2013 | 01:39 PM
Been to Gettysburg many times. I always have to stop at The Mine (the bar mentioned in the article). Lots of great conversation with many educated and interesting characters. You may end up learning even more there than on the Battlefield.
Posted by Ben on April 4,2013 | 07:46 PM
The most interesting fact about the 20 year old woman who died while baking bread was that she was apparently the only civilian fatality in a battle that included 51,000 combatant casualties. A different time.
Posted by Joe Jones on March 31,2013 | 11:06 PM
I too am pulled to Gettysburg, probably from frequent visits with my dad while my mom was busy visiting her alma mater, the now closed St. Joseph's College in Emmittsburg, MD (now the site of the fire/rescue training center). My last visit I roamed the streets of the town and visisted the beautiful new visitor's center,with my old friend the cyclorama. Something about the all those lives coming together still floats in the air. Twice now I've done a horseback battlefield tour-it brings a perspective to events that at least some of the participants had. After reading this article, I'm looking at my calendar for when I can return. Thankfully, it is only a day trip from my home in Baltimore.
Posted by Mary James on March 29,2013 | 09:57 AM
Gettysburg College is a bucolic campus, but it is not "hilltop" campus. The writer is likely confusing the college with the Lutheran Seminary, which sits atop Seminary Ridge.
Posted by Sean on March 28,2013 | 07:15 PM
My wife and I visited Gettysburg for the 100th anniversary of this terrible battle. We spoke in hushed tones as we walked among the many monuments. We never returned. Gettysburg had taught us much that lasted a lifetime.
Posted by Richard Ariessohn on March 27,2013 | 12:25 PM
Gettysburg keeps making me come back. Last week was the sixth time... What is it that does that? Has to be the lure of guilty landscape and historical atmosphere... NPS does a fantastic job in preserving the field, I try to help a little by donating to the Civil War Trust. Wish I could come over more often. Frank, Holland PS. I really liked your book Conferates in the Attic!
Posted by Frank Ratelband on March 24,2013 | 11:52 AM
Tony (or anybody else) - how can i locate the burial trench that you spoke of? Thanks John
Posted by John on March 22,2013 | 09:27 AM
To capture Gettysburg - a timeless place. And to show the amazing, positive changes that have happened to Gettysburg - "the ambitious rehabilitation" which Horowitz describes - we used unmanned aerial drone high definition video cameras to show the battlefield in a way that it has never been seen before in "The Gettysburg Story" film for public television. You can see a preview of the film here: http://www.GettysburgStory.com
Posted by Jake Boritt on March 22,2013 | 08:35 AM