Has Gettysburg Kicked Its Kitsch Factor?
Historian Tony Horwitz travels to the Civil War battlefield and finds that even where time is frozen, it’s undergone welcome changes
- By Tony Horwitz
- Smithsonian magazine, April 2013, Subscribe
Climbing over a snake-rail fence, Peter Carmichael leads me across a field of grass stubble and gray boulders. On this wintry day in 2013, the field is frozen and silent. But 150 years ago it was filled with the shriek and smoke of the bloodiest battle in American history.
“The Confederates who charged here were mowed down in minutes,” says Carmichael, director of the Civil War Institute at Gettysburg College. As evidence, he shows me photographs taken just after the battle of bullet-riddled corpses. Then he walks a few paces and lays the 1863 images on the ground. The field in the photographs aligns perfectly with the one we’re looking at in 2013, right down to clefts in individual boulders. All that’s missing are the dead. “That’s what’s so chilling and special about Gettysburg,” Carmichael says. “You can almost enter the past. It’s like time travel.”
Recapturing history with such precision wasn’t always so easy at Gettysburg. When I visited as a boy in the 1960s and ’70s, the battlefield contours included the Home Sweet Home Motel, a 300-foot observation tower and a Stuckey’s restaurant. Until just a few years ago, the battlefield visitors center stood near Gettysburg’s “High Water Mark” (the farthest point reached in Pickett’s Charge) and within sight of a wax museum, a restaurant called General Pickett’s Buffets and a clot of souvenir shops.
Tourist kitsch has always been part of Gettysburg’s appeal and much of it remains. But due to an extraordinary rehabilitation of the battlefield in recent years, and nonmilitary sites in and around the town, visiting Gettysburg is a much richer experience than the one many Americans may recall from school and family trips in earlier decades.
This is also a community that takes history seriously while having serious fun. Karin J. Bohleke is a case in point as is her husband, a scholar at Gettysburg’s Lutheran Theological Seminary, the cupola of which served as a lookout for both armies in 1863. I met the couple in the ballroom of the Gettysburg Hotel, teaching quadrilles and reels to 50 people practicing for a period ball. “Good Victorian posture!” Bohleke instructs. “And ladies, when you step back, tilt forward on your toes so you won’t trip on your hoop skirts.”
This casual blend of past and present suffuses Gettysburg, attracting people who love to live history, and not just the Civil War. In warm weather the streets fill with battle re-enactors, Lincoln impersonators, ghost-tour leaders carrying lanterns, and others dressed in everything from buckskins to World War II attire (the summer dress code seems to be “any time but the present”). Residents are so used to this eclectic parade that they don’t even blink at buying groceries beside Stonewall Jackson or Clara Barton. “It’s the banality of weirdness,” says Ian Isherwood, who teaches history at Gettysburg College. “People feel this license to be whomever they want.”
A more somber air prevails on the fields and ridges around town, where the Valley of Death and Slaughter Pen speak to the carnage that occurred here in 1863. That summer, following repeated victories in Virginia, Robert E. Lee led his army into Pennsylvania, hoping to gather supplies and crush his demoralized foes by beating them on Northern soil. A Union Army shadowed Lee’s, but neither side knew the other’s exact position. When units from the two armies collided near Gettysburg, reinforcements quickly converged along the ten roads leading into the town. Unlike most major Civil War battles, which resulted from long campaigns for control of strategic rail or river hubs, Gettysburg was a sudden and improvised clash in and around a rural college town. The three days of fighting caused 51,000 casualties—almost a third of all the soldiers engaged, and more than 20 times the town’s civilian population.
Gettysburg turned the Civil War in the Union’s favor, and Lincoln’s address near the soldiers’ cemetery four months after the battle is the most famous in U.S. history.Gettysburg is also the world’s largest sculpture garden, with over 1,300 monuments dotting miles of countryside. In short, there’s an awful lot of hallowed ground to cover. So it pays to be selective and to exercise some old-school virtues: map-reading, advance study and most of all, imagination. Otherwise, Gettysburg may seem just a peaceful expanse of farmland, marble and mute cannons—the opposite of the violent and deafening scene of destruction the battlefield commemorates.
Fortunately, the Gettysburg National Military Park does a stellar job of interpreting the battlefield, beginning with an introductory movie and museum at a palatial new visitors center. The park service has also just restored Gettysburg’s famed cyclorama, a 377-foot circular painting with a viewing platform at the center, so that combat swirls dizzyingly around you. Painted on canvas in 1884, the artwork melds into a 3-D diorama, creating the illusion that you can step off the platform and into Pickett’s Charge.
The changes to the 6,000 acres of battlefield park are even more striking because of an ambitious rehabilitation over the past 12 years. Not only have intrusive modern structures and utility lines been removed. The park service (which has a tree on its logo) has cleared woods that weren’t there in 1863, replanted orchards that were, and rebuilt miles of the zigzag “worm” fences that formed such a distinct and critical part of the original battleground.
While hard-core buffs might dream of even more—roads returned to wagon trails and planes banned from Gettysburg’s airspace—the result is a rare re-creation of the mid-19th century. “We’re not doing DNA analysis to determine exactly what type of heirloom apple grew in which orchard,” says Katie Lawhon, a park service ranger, “but we’re doing what’s realistic and sustainable to bring back the 1863 landscape.” This has brought environmental dividends, too, including the return of long-absent birds and of a rare mammal called the “least shrew.”
The rehabilitation has also drawn attention to parts of the battlefield that were once hard to reach or make sense of because of changes in the land. Most visitors still cluster at famous sites, such as Little Round Top, where Joshua Chamberlain and his Maine men repelled a flank assault, or the Angle, where Pickett’s Charge crashed into the Union line. But serious buffs like Peter Carmichael of the Civil War Institute prefer horse and walking trails removed from the tourist mobs. Clutching maps and photographs from the 1860s, he leads me on a narrow path to the base of Culp’s Hill, where the fighting was so intense that men battled into the night.
“That’s a burial trench,” he says, pointing at a depression about three feet deep and six feet wide. “It was filled with Confederate soldiers.” Though the bodies were later disinterred and moved to gravesites in Virginia, the land still bears the scars. Carmichael reads letters from John Futch, who saw his brother suffer and die while fighting here. “We lost all of our boys nearly,” Futch wrote his wife, declaring himself “half crazy” and desperate to return home. He deserted soon after the battle, but was caught and executed. “Places like this, where you can link the landscape to individuals, remind you that the war wasn’t all glory and noble sacrifice,” Carmichael says.
After a half-day of battle tourism, I retreated into town, which I’d barely explored on previous visits. One reason: The street closest to the battleground is a gaudy strip that includes the wax museum, a model train museum, Servant’s Olde-Tyme Photos and shops peddling cap guns, toy soldiers and paranormal gear for the town’s dozen ghost tours. But just beyond this skirmish line of schlock stretches the town’s historic heart, a grid of handsome streets and buildings, anchored by Gettysburg College. The bucolic hilltop campus arose before the Civil War on land owned by Thaddeus Stevens, the radical abolitionist played by Tommy Lee Jones in the movie Lincoln. An exhibit on Stevens includes his light brown wig, boots designed for his club foot, a photograph of the black woman he allegedly shared his bed with, and a document quoting Stevens’ words shortly before his death: “My lifelong regret is that I have lived so long and uselessly.”
Lincoln was likewise modest (and wrong) in declaring at Gettysburg, “The world will little note, nor long remember what we say here.” The story of his 272-word address is well told at the David Wills House, a museum inside the home where Lincoln stayed the night before his speech. The grand brick home features the room where Lincoln may have polished his words, and the mahogany bed he slept in. I also learned that the Gettysburg Address was recorded by reporters at the scene, not always with accuracy. One newspaper wrote that Lincoln closed his speech by resolving that, “government for and of the people, born in freedom, might not perish from apathy.” Another newspaper considered Lincoln’s address a collection of “silly, flat, and dishwater utterances.”
Subscribe now for more of Smithsonian's coverage on history, science and nature.









Comments (9)
In regard to Tony Horwitz’s recommendation of “advance study” before visiting Gettysburg (“Best Small Towns”): A source that should not be overlooked is historian Douglas Southall Freeman’s three-volume classic, Lee’s Lieutenants: A Study in Command (1944). His detailed, evocative chronicling of the battles of the Army of Northern Virginia include (Vol.3) a spellbinding account of the Gettysburg engagements, from the confederate perspective. Lee’s Lieutenants is a great read, even for one who isn’t preparing to visit a Civil War battlefield.
Posted by James Shaver on May 6,2013 | 01:39 PM
Been to Gettysburg many times. I always have to stop at The Mine (the bar mentioned in the article). Lots of great conversation with many educated and interesting characters. You may end up learning even more there than on the Battlefield.
Posted by Ben on April 4,2013 | 07:46 PM
The most interesting fact about the 20 year old woman who died while baking bread was that she was apparently the only civilian fatality in a battle that included 51,000 combatant casualties. A different time.
Posted by Joe Jones on March 31,2013 | 11:06 PM
I too am pulled to Gettysburg, probably from frequent visits with my dad while my mom was busy visiting her alma mater, the now closed St. Joseph's College in Emmittsburg, MD (now the site of the fire/rescue training center). My last visit I roamed the streets of the town and visisted the beautiful new visitor's center,with my old friend the cyclorama. Something about the all those lives coming together still floats in the air. Twice now I've done a horseback battlefield tour-it brings a perspective to events that at least some of the participants had. After reading this article, I'm looking at my calendar for when I can return. Thankfully, it is only a day trip from my home in Baltimore.
Posted by Mary James on March 29,2013 | 09:57 AM
Gettysburg College is a bucolic campus, but it is not "hilltop" campus. The writer is likely confusing the college with the Lutheran Seminary, which sits atop Seminary Ridge.
Posted by Sean on March 28,2013 | 07:15 PM
My wife and I visited Gettysburg for the 100th anniversary of this terrible battle. We spoke in hushed tones as we walked among the many monuments. We never returned. Gettysburg had taught us much that lasted a lifetime.
Posted by Richard Ariessohn on March 27,2013 | 12:25 PM
Gettysburg keeps making me come back. Last week was the sixth time... What is it that does that? Has to be the lure of guilty landscape and historical atmosphere... NPS does a fantastic job in preserving the field, I try to help a little by donating to the Civil War Trust. Wish I could come over more often. Frank, Holland PS. I really liked your book Conferates in the Attic!
Posted by Frank Ratelband on March 24,2013 | 11:52 AM
Tony (or anybody else) - how can i locate the burial trench that you spoke of? Thanks John
Posted by John on March 22,2013 | 09:27 AM
To capture Gettysburg - a timeless place. And to show the amazing, positive changes that have happened to Gettysburg - "the ambitious rehabilitation" which Horowitz describes - we used unmanned aerial drone high definition video cameras to show the battlefield in a way that it has never been seen before in "The Gettysburg Story" film for public television. You can see a preview of the film here: http://www.GettysburgStory.com
Posted by Jake Boritt on March 22,2013 | 08:35 AM