Endangered Site: Port City of Coro, Venezuela

One of South America's best preserved towns, this Spanish colonial port city now faces deteriorating conditions

  • By Karen Larkins
  • Smithsonian magazine, March 2009, Subscribe
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Port City of Coro
Coro is a "unique example of a well-conserved urban area with Spanish, Antillean, Dutch and indigenous architectural influences," says Venezuelan architect Maria Eugenia Bacci. (Peter M. Wilson / Alamy)

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Port City of Coro Venezuela

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A strong breeze blows along the southern coast of Venezuela's Paraguaná Peninsula, which is surely how Coro got its name, a derivation of the Caquetío Indian word curiana, meaning "place of winds." Today, the Caribbean port—arguably the first to call itself the "windy city"—is one of South America's oldest and best-preserved colonial towns, retaining much of its original layout and many of its early earthen structures.

Coro was founded by the Spanish in 1527 as the first capital of the Province of Venezuela. But just a year later, King Carlos I of Spain leased the province to the Welsers, a German banking house, to repay loans worth around 850,000 florins (6,600 pounds of gold), which he had borrowed to defeat the candidacy of Francis I of France to become the next Holy Roman Emperor. He succeeded, and was crowned Emperor Charles V by the pope in 1530. (Even then, campaigns for the top jobs were expensive.) Under German control, Coro became a base for explorers seeking El Dorado, South America's mythical city of gold. When the lease expired in 1546, Spain reclaimed the province and relocated the capital inland—away from pirates who preyed upon European colonies—125 miles to the south, in El Tocuyo. For the next century and a half, Coro was little more than a provincial outpost, vulnerable to both pirates and the unforgiving weather. Devastating raids in 1567, 1595 and 1659, as well as a cyclone in 1681, curbed the city's growth.

But, in the 18th century, a burgeoning trade in agricultural produce and livestock with the nearby Dutch islands of Curaçao and Bonaire, as well as several Spanish Caribbean islands, allowed Coro to blossom, and many of its 600 surviving historic structures date back to this era.

Coro is a "unique example of a well-conserved urban area with Spanish, Antillean, Dutch and indigenous architectural influences," says Venezuelan architect Maria Eugenia Bacci. And each building has a story to tell. The 16th-century Spanish-style Cathedral was Venezuela's first cathedral and the seat of South America's first bishopric. (The gun slits in its tower attest, also, to the Cathedral's role in defending the city.) The 18th-century Casa de las Ventanas de Hierro (House of the Iron Windows) is named for its wrought-iron window grilles, luxuries imported from Seville, Spain. The house has belonged to the same family—the Tellerías—for 230 years. The Balcón de Bolívar (Bolívar's Balcony), a rare two-story residence with elements of Antillean and Canary Island architectural styles, commemorates revolutionary leader Simon Bolívar's only visit to Coro, December 23, 1826, and his appearance on the balcony to greet supporters.

In 1993, the United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization (UNESCO) designated Coro a World Heritage Site—then the only one in Venezuela. But by 2005, the city's deteriorating condition—caused, in part, by two consecutive years of heavy rains—prompted UNESCO to place Coro on its List of World Heritage in Danger. The organization issued a number of preservation recommendations, including a new drainage system and measures to control the growing traffic of tourists. "So far, nothing's been done," says Graziano Gasparini, a restoration architect and frequent visitor who originally nominated Coro as a World Heritage Site. "There was an allocation of $32 million on the part of the Venezuelan government to address Coro's problems, and no one knows where it went."

Coro remains on UNESCO's endangered list. The demise of this city, which has survived hurricanes and the predations of pirates, "would be a loss to everyone," says Bacci. "It's not just the patrimony of the country or of the region but of the world."


A strong breeze blows along the southern coast of Venezuela's Paraguaná Peninsula, which is surely how Coro got its name, a derivation of the Caquetío Indian word curiana, meaning "place of winds." Today, the Caribbean port—arguably the first to call itself the "windy city"—is one of South America's oldest and best-preserved colonial towns, retaining much of its original layout and many of its early earthen structures.

Coro was founded by the Spanish in 1527 as the first capital of the Province of Venezuela. But just a year later, King Carlos I of Spain leased the province to the Welsers, a German banking house, to repay loans worth around 850,000 florins (6,600 pounds of gold), which he had borrowed to defeat the candidacy of Francis I of France to become the next Holy Roman Emperor. He succeeded, and was crowned Emperor Charles V by the pope in 1530. (Even then, campaigns for the top jobs were expensive.) Under German control, Coro became a base for explorers seeking El Dorado, South America's mythical city of gold. When the lease expired in 1546, Spain reclaimed the province and relocated the capital inland—away from pirates who preyed upon European colonies—125 miles to the south, in El Tocuyo. For the next century and a half, Coro was little more than a provincial outpost, vulnerable to both pirates and the unforgiving weather. Devastating raids in 1567, 1595 and 1659, as well as a cyclone in 1681, curbed the city's growth.

But, in the 18th century, a burgeoning trade in agricultural produce and livestock with the nearby Dutch islands of Curaçao and Bonaire, as well as several Spanish Caribbean islands, allowed Coro to blossom, and many of its 600 surviving historic structures date back to this era.

Coro is a "unique example of a well-conserved urban area with Spanish, Antillean, Dutch and indigenous architectural influences," says Venezuelan architect Maria Eugenia Bacci. And each building has a story to tell. The 16th-century Spanish-style Cathedral was Venezuela's first cathedral and the seat of South America's first bishopric. (The gun slits in its tower attest, also, to the Cathedral's role in defending the city.) The 18th-century Casa de las Ventanas de Hierro (House of the Iron Windows) is named for its wrought-iron window grilles, luxuries imported from Seville, Spain. The house has belonged to the same family—the Tellerías—for 230 years. The Balcón de Bolívar (Bolívar's Balcony), a rare two-story residence with elements of Antillean and Canary Island architectural styles, commemorates revolutionary leader Simon Bolívar's only visit to Coro, December 23, 1826, and his appearance on the balcony to greet supporters.

In 1993, the United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization (UNESCO) designated Coro a World Heritage Site—then the only one in Venezuela. But by 2005, the city's deteriorating condition—caused, in part, by two consecutive years of heavy rains—prompted UNESCO to place Coro on its List of World Heritage in Danger. The organization issued a number of preservation recommendations, including a new drainage system and measures to control the growing traffic of tourists. "So far, nothing's been done," says Graziano Gasparini, a restoration architect and frequent visitor who originally nominated Coro as a World Heritage Site. "There was an allocation of $32 million on the part of the Venezuelan government to address Coro's problems, and no one knows where it went."

Coro remains on UNESCO's endangered list. The demise of this city, which has survived hurricanes and the predations of pirates, "would be a loss to everyone," says Bacci. "It's not just the patrimony of the country or of the region but of the world."

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Comments (4)

October 31, 2009

Yesterday, I assisted to a conference presented by Graziano Gasparini in Coro, Falcon. He presented his new book "Escuchar al Monumento" He said: "Coro hurts me" (or in other words, he loves Coro, and he is worry about its deterioration) His words really touched me... I could notice that he was very emotional talking about this city. Certainly, he is a sensible man, a man who can "listen to the monument".

Gasparini, you are a loyal professional, a loyal human being, a loyal citizen who loves my Venezuela as you were born here. And I know many, many people around the world is applauding your hard work.

I am really admire what you have done for the humanity.

Natalia Torrealba

Posted by Natalia Torrealba on October 31,2009 | 10:56 AM

I have visited Venezuela on several occasions and have found the people to be friendly and hospitable. The beaches are beautiful but almost totally undeveloped--even the roads to the beaches are in serious need of repair. Venezuelans are industrious and most cities are clean and well maintained by the standards of Latin America. Development is hindered by an almost total lack of trust by the business community in the government and banking system. Corruption is rampant. Many businesses want to be paid in cash because they can't trust local banks to forward credit card payments to them on a timely basis (payments from Visa or Mastercard sometimes take six-months or more to reach the vendor, if they arrive at all).

Posted by Lang W. Anderson III on April 26,2009 | 01:06 PM

Since the Venezuelan Government is fond of giving away BILLIONS of "aid" to Cuba and other Socialist countries in Central and South America, let it take care of its own problems! The entire country is rapidly deteriorating under the Chavez Socialist Revolution, which is clearly part of the strategy to subjugate the lower class, destroy the middle class and enrich those who are aligned with El Comandante.

Posted by Sumner Kabler on March 2,2009 | 09:44 AM

Coro, Venezuela is indeed a treasure that holds many memories in my 88 year ols heart and mind! Our family company "Empressa Aqua Viva" brought an artisian water well there inl941. My two year old son Ronald learned to speak Spanish there. My youngest son was born there July,1941. Hungry for butter I had 50 to 100 pounds flown from the States and had a regular butter route run by one of the young men in town. I helped another visitor to Coro who did not speak English design a Hotel with running watter and other American features. There was no store in Coro then, you could buy thread from one residnt, dishehes from another etc. Of Course you could buy meat if you ordered it ahead and had someone present at the weekly buthering that occured at midnight when it was coolest. The people there were good people and won our deep affection,Our Company brought in several water wells in the State of Falcon, each brings back many many memories.

Posted by Susan Anderman on February 28,2009 | 02:29 PM




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