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Colombia Dispatch 9: The Story of MedellinExplore more photos from the story |
Medellin has undergone an amazing transformation in the last 5 years. In the 1980s and '90s, Colombia's second-largest city was a war zone known as one of the most violent cities in the world and the center of Pablo Escobar's drug cartel. Police were afraid to enter many areas as street gangs and guerrilla and paramilitary groups fought for control of neighborhoods.
Military crackdowns in the early 2000s quelled the violence, and peace agreements with illegal armed groups came about in late 2003 through a demobilization process that gave amnesty to most combatants who laid down their arms. Murders in the city of about 2 million are now down from a peak of 6,349 in 1991 to 653 in 2007.
In recent years, the city government has invested heavily in its poorest neighborhoods that creep up the steep Andean slopes. A comprehensive plan spearhead by Sergio Fajardo, mayor of Medellin from 2003 to 2007, focuses on keeping the peace through education and community-building instead of military force. Its goal is stopping the desperation that first led many of Medellin's youth into violence.
As a first step, the city worked to transform a mountainside of poor neighborhoods plagued by violent conflict. Ski-lift style gondolas carry commuters more than a mile down the steep slope to a metro stop, drastically reducing travel time and cost to downtown. Parks provide a place for children to play and neighbors to meet. A former dumping ground for bodies is now a terraced plaza. New bridges run across canyons and streams that were once boundaries for turf wars, linking neighborhoods once torn apart. Boys play soccer on a newly paved street.
And high on the hill sits one of Medellin's new "library parks," a large modern building that offers free computer centers, a comprehensive library and daycare. On the Saturday morning I visited, it was full of children sharing books, browsing the Internet and playing games. The area's first banks have popped up to offer micro credit loans for starting small businesses. And bright orange signs and billboards all around Medellin proclaim that "violence will not return to my city."
I headed on the city's squeaky-clean metro rail to Juan Bobo, a neighborhood of 300 families that was once one of Medellin's most dangerous spots. Margarita Rivera works here for the city's firm for urban development. She tells me that until 2005, shanties cobbled together from scrap wood lined dirty paths and crowded up against the muddy banks of a stream. Since its recent metamorphosis, it's been renamed Nuevo Sol Del Oriente (New Sun of the East). Now a neat concrete sluice directs the stream's waters. Gleaming stairs and pathways lead to small plazas and new houses and apartment buildings offered to residents in exchange for their shanties.
Rivera introduces me to Henry Antonio Pinella, a 39-year-old longtime resident of the neighborhood. He tells me about the region's dark period in the 1990s, when paramilitaries walked on the rooftops while patrolling his neighborhood. To maintain control, they imposed strict curfews and shot anyone outside after dark. Sometimes they dropped large rocks onto passerby instead of wasting bullets, Pinella tells me, crossing himself as he talks. "We were living in very difficult conditions, now it's 100 percent better," he tells me. Motioning to the new apartments, he says, "We never thought we would have this."
But change wasn't easy. During construction, residents had to move in with relatives or to temporary housing provided by the government. Distrustful of the government because of past corruption, many didn't want to leave. But Pinella jumped at the chance of a better home, and worked with government representatives to organize residents. "A lot of people here thought I was crazy," he says. "I was walking around with a megaphone calling people."
Though crime rates are much lower than a few years ago, Medellin still struggles with gang violence. And human rights organizations, including Amnesty International, have criticized Colombia's demobilization process. They say it allows crimes to go unpunished and has failed to effectively dismantle paramilitary groups.
But locals in the neighborhoods I visited say the city's transformation is unbelievable. Ana Sofia Palacio, a resident of the neighborhood for 34 years, proudly shows me her new modest brick apartment. "This is a palace that they've sent me," she says. Before the changes, people socialized less frequently, both out of fear of violence and a lack of public places to meet. "Now we are like a family," she says.
Comments
Great article on the miraculous transformation of Medellin! I traveled solo to Medellin, Colombia and discovered the locals, known as "paisas" to be very warm and inviting to a curious traveler like myself.
To learn more about Medellin, Colombia visit http://www.medellintraveler.com
Vive Medellin, Colombia!
Posted by Ambrose Santiago on March 1,2009 | 02:01PM
Ambrose is not alone! I´m an American who arrived in Medellin after a 14-month trip around the world, and decided to try and live and work in the City of the Eternal Spring.
My city adventures can be followed on a new blog - http://MedellinLiving.com
Posted by Dave on March 10,2009 | 02:30PM
Just returned from a trip to Medellin. Medellin is still a very dangerous city and is not recommended to travel alone especially if you don’t speak Spanish. With the highest unemployment rate in Colombia and still a large population of mafia gangs, one has to be aware of his surroundings at all times especially if you are a tourist. I have had friends run into all kinds of problems while vacationing there. Don’t believe all the hype, even though Colombia has changed a lot and for the better, there is still the issue of security which is not comparable to any US cities. One could disappear for good and nobody would have seen anything even the police. Please keep your head on. Supp
Posted by Supp on April 21,2009 | 10:30AM
With 99% of the tourist population restricting themselves to a few rich and popular neighborhoods where the vast majority of hotels and activities are located, there is very little to fear for the tourist in Medellin. The overwhelming response from visitors to Medellin, even those who came with much trepidation is "Wow, I never expected it to be like this.. I'll be back as soon as I have more time off" Medellin is no longer a diamond in the rough. It truly is South America's (still yet) undiscovered gem. Like the publicity says "The only risk is wanting to stay". If you are considering visiting Medellin, experience it in your own luxury apartment. http://www.theapartmentmedellin.com
Posted by Andrew Campion on May 6,2009 | 03:31PM
I've been to Medellin twice and both times never felt in danger. We walked at dusk a long way in the city to the center, and mixed with the locals watching a soccer game. My latest trip too me to Colombia's Pacific coast, near the tiny town of Nuqui. Here we had soldiers escorting us and it was as wild a place as I've ever seen. No radio, newspapers, internet, tv or any real contact with the outside world. It was lovely and so was the fish taken right out of the ocean by fishermen in dugout canoes.
read about it on www.gonomad.com
Posted by Max Hartshorne on September 12,2009 | 07:14AM