In the dry season, they are hard to find. Food is scarce in Niger's bush and the animals are on the move, loping miles a day to eat the tops of acacia and combretum trees. I'm in the back seat of a Land Rover and two guides are sitting on the roof. We're looking for some of the only giraffes in the world that roam entirely in unprotected habitat.
Though it's well over 90 degrees Fahrenheit by 10 a.m., the guides find it chilly and are wearing parkas, and one of them, Kimba Idé, has pulled a blue woolen toque over his ears. Idé bangs on the windshield with a long stick to direct the driver: left, right, right again. Frantic tapping means slow down. Pointing into the air means speed up. But it's hard to imagine going any faster. We are off-road, and the bumps pitch us so high that my seat belt cuts into my neck and my tape recorder flies into the front seat, prompting the driver to laugh. Thorny bushes scraping the truck's paint sound like fingernails on a chalkboard. I don't know what to worry about more: the damage the truck might be causing to the ecosystem or the very real possibility we might flip over.
While Africa may have as many as 100,000 giraffes, most of them live in wildlife reserves, private sanctuaries, national parks or other protected areas not inhabited by humans. Niger's giraffes, however, live alongside villagers, most of whom are subsistence farmers from the Zarma ethnic group. Nomadic Peuls, another group, also pass through the area herding cattle. The "giraffe zone," where the animals spend most of their time, is about 40 square miles, although their full range is about 650 square miles. I've seen villagers cutting millet, oblivious to giraffes foraging nearby—a picturesque tableau. But Niger is one of the poorest, most desolate places on earth—it has consistently ranked at or near the bottom of the 177 nations on the United Nation's Human Development Index—and people and giraffes are both fighting for survival, competing for some of the same scarce resources in this dry, increasingly deforested land.
There are nine giraffe subspecies, each distinguished by its range and the color and pattern of its coat. The endangered Giraffa camelopardalis peralta is the one found in Niger and only Niger; it has large orange-brown spots on its body that fade to white on its legs. (The reticulated subspecies, known for its sharply defined chestnut brown spots, is found in many zoos.) In the 19th century, thousands of peralta giraffes lived in West Africa, from Mauritania to Niger, in the semiarid land known as the Sahel. By 1996, fewer than 50 remained because of hunting, deforestation and development; the subspecies was heading for extinction.
That was about the time I first went to Niger, to work for a development organization called Africare/Niger in the capital city of Niamey. I recall being struck by the heartbreaking beauty of the desert, the way people managed to live with so little—they imported used tires from Germany, drove on them until they were bald and then used them as soles for their shoes—and the slower pace of life. We drank mint tea loaded with sugar and sat for hours waiting for painted henna designs to dry on our skin. "I don't know how anyone can visit West Africa and want to live anywhere else in the world," I wrote in my journal as an idealistic 23-year-old.
Two nights a week I taught English at the American Culture Center, where one of my students was a young French ethologist named Isabelle Ciofolo. She spent her days following the giraffes to observe their behavior. She would study the herd for 12 years and was the first to publish research about it. In 1994, she helped found the Association to Safeguard the Giraffes of Niger (ASGN), which protects giraffe habitat, educates the local population about giraffes, and provides microloans and other aid to villagers in the giraffe zone. The ASGN also participates in an annual giraffe census. Which is how I ended up, some 15 years after I first met Ciofolo, in a bucking Land Rover on a giraffe observation expedition that she was leading with Omer Dovi, the Nigerien operations manager for ASGN.
Working on a tip that a large group of giraffes had been spotted the night before, we spend more than two hours looking for them in the bush before we veer off into the savanna. Another hour goes by before Dovi shouts, "There they are!" The driver cuts the Land Rover's engine and we approach the animals on foot: a towering male with large brown spots, two females and three nurslings, which are all ambling through the bush.
The adult giraffes pause and regard us nonchalantly before going back to their browsing. The nurslings, which are only a few weeks old and as frisky as colts, stop and stare at us, batting enormous Mae West eyelashes. Their petal-shaped ears are cocked forward beside their furry horns (which, Ciofolo says, are not really horns but ossicones made from cartilage and covered with skin). Not even the guides can tell if the nurslings are male or female. Once a giraffe matures, the distinction is easy: peralta males grow a third ossicone. The census-takers note three baby giraffes of indeterminate gender.
Related topics: Ungulates Niger
Additional Sources
"West Africa's Last Giraffes: The Conflict between Development and Conservation" by I. Ciofolo, Journal of Tropical Ecology, 11:577-588, 1995


Comments
WHAT A WONDERFUL ARTICLE!
Posted by PAT ARTMAN on October 23,2008 | 11:52AM
I was a Peace Corps volunteer in Niger 2001-2003. I had the very fortunate experience of riding on a cow cart (how-torco for you Zarma-nites!) and finding one these majestic peltras. We ended up chasing him down a little, but to see that beautiful creature run was amazing. It is a memory that will forever remain engraved in my mind. I'm so pleased to see the people of Harikannasou, which I have met a few of them, helping to keep these wonderful beings in a wonderful sanctuary. Niger is a beautiful place and I miss it dearly. I hope to return someday and see these creatures again.
Posted by Samantha Hall (aka Nafissa) on October 28,2008 | 10:10PM
an excellent, interesting article here and in november issue of the Smithsonian magazine, by Jennifer Margulis.
Posted by herbert tolpen on November 4,2008 | 08:22AM
Always my favorite animal, I learned so much more from Ms. Margulis article than I had previously known. At the Providence, R.I. Roger William's Zoo, my grandson and I saw a video of a giraffe giving birth at this same Zoo. It was amazing to watch the mother nuzzling after the birth and the size of the new born, faltering on its long feet and finallly standing up by itself. Glenna Mazel
Posted by glenna mazel on November 6,2008 | 09:00AM
I loved your article. Giraffes have been my favorite animal since a little girl of 8 years seeing them up closed in the zoo for the first time. I remember their huge eyes and long lashes and their gentle and elegant walk. I am now 76 years old and they are still my favorite animal. My friends know of my love of giraffes and have given me many cards, trinkets and little statues with their image over the years. The article by Jennifer Margulis was execelent and very hopeful for the giraffes of Niger. It is the best article I've read on giraffes. Thank you so much. Bernie Donahue
Posted by Bernie Donahue on November 6,2008 | 06:08PM
I loved the article. It really gave me more facts about the animal I love. I am so pleased to learn that the people and the giraffes are learning to live together in Niger. I receive the magazine and loved the picture of the four giraffes standing lined up, like for a photo. I had hoped to use it for a powerpoint presentation I am putting together for a class I have. It is wonderful.
Posted by P Holder on November 9,2008 | 11:20AM
awsome pictures love the patterns of the giraffe, the baby was cute.
Posted by Taylor on November 9,2008 | 02:48PM
I, too, was a Peace Corps Volunteer in Niger (2000-02) and had the opportunity to see the giraffes twice quite by accident and again when I revisited this summer and sought them out. What a great article and amazing experience to see them up close! Thanks, Jennifer Margulis, for taking us to such an unknown part of the world. Niger will always be the most special place I've ever lived.
Posted by Tracey McGee on November 10,2008 | 07:37AM
MY SONS AND I WERE LOOKING AT THE PICTURES AND THEY WERE AMAZED AT HOW BIG THEY ARE. MY 4 YEAR OLD SON LOVES GIRAFFES, HE HAS A STUFFED ANIMAL GIRAFFE THAT HE SLEEPS WITH AND CARRIES WHERE EVER HE GOES, IT'S THE CUTED THING EVER.
Posted by JULIA on November 10,2008 | 07:03PM
I am so happy that Smithsonian did an article on this great animal of Africa. The giraffe is my favorite wild animal. The Woodland Park Zoo in Seattle has a wonderful exibit of the Savanna animals from Africa. I have gone several times to feed the giraffes. What an experience it is each and every time. I told friends about my experience and brought them to the zoo with their kids. The giraffes have given me happiness for some unknown reason, but it is delightful. As the villager said "Giraffes bring happiness here." I confirm the saying here on the North American continent too. I hope there is continued progress in Niger for the Giraffes and the other sub species that have habitat lose in different parts of Africa. If we can bring the North American Buffalo back from near extinction, it can be done with other species as well. Thank You Smithsonian for bringing this magnificant creature to the front.
Posted by Keith Hass on November 15,2008 | 09:21PM
Elephants get all the attention when it comes to African animals. They are beautiful and great creatures but giraffes are so much more interesting! All legs and neck, it is such an unusual form of life. Most curious! Thanks for the very informative article. Mary Ellen Fornsel P.S. I really enjoy your magazine!
Posted by Mary Ellen Fornsel on November 17,2008 | 10:02AM
The writer's eyes "LOOKING UP" penetrate beyond the predictable; with lightening suddenness she forces our attention on the lasting and the meaningful in Niger's stark landscape of the Sahel. Nabakov listed three criteria of literature. His fellow authors were admonished to inform, to enchant and to tell a story. And Jennifer has done so with a mature version of the empathy, grace and insight she has shown since before she began to speak and write full sentences. Here environmental problems of the peralta giraffe's bang-down birth of tall babies and the Nigeriens who follow their lives into the bush have become our own. My pride in her work and love for my daughter is unconditional.
Posted by Lynn Margulis on December 27,2008 | 06:18PM
This is a lovely article. I was also served as a Peace Corps Volunteer in Niger from 2003-05. During our time in training, our training group was taken to the giraffe area where they roamed free. This was during rainy season around August 2003. We were fortunate to come across 20 or more of them. We must have spoked them. One moment they were relaxed and foraging, the next they broke into a run. It was a classic National Geographic moment that I will never forget. It was just lovely to see animals free in their natural habitat like this. My biggest regret was not taking a photo. Jennifer, thank you so much for focusing on not only the giraffes but spotlighing the people of Niger as well. It is rare to hear anything postive about this poverty stricken country aside from famine. I loved my time living and working in Niger and look forward to returning for a visit in the future. The people are just as lovely and graceful as the giraffes.
Posted by Vivian Nguyen on January 8,2009 | 08:02PM
Excellent article and a big thank you. My son did a book report based on Africa and their endangered wild life and this article provided valuable information for him. Because of the in-depth information on Giraffes and how they are making a comeback, he scored an A on the report!
-Stephen
Personal Injury Lawyer NJ
Posted by Stephen on April 8,2009 | 08:55AM
Thank you for this inspiring article about these Giraffes. With all the things going on in today's world, it is incredible how nature seems to always revitalize itself in grand fashion.
Scott Philadelphia Wedding Photographer
Posted by Scott on April 15,2009 | 05:57PM
For at least 20 years I have been enchanted by giraffes - my first expressed interest in them came during an adult education/sharing hour in my Congregational Church. We were asked what animal we most admired and would like to be our guardian. I immediately thought of and said the "Giraffe". When asked why by other persons in the group, I said because they are so majestic, can see above all other animals including people and seem to be so gentle.
I.also, over the years have collected and been given many giraffe objects - miniatures, stuffed animals. a giraffe lamp which I use with my computer, a giraffe stool, etc. When my sister was about 16 she oil painted three giraffes in their natural habitat - this painting now sits on the mantle above the fireplace in my apartment and before apartment living it rested on a large wall in the living room of my house. I continue to be interested in giraffes and am concerned about the continuance and care of this wonderful species. My sister subscribes to the Smithsonian magazine and sent me the article entitled "Looking Up". I loved it and as a result got on your web site. Thanks so much for an informative and educational article.
Posted by Sonya McCubrey on April 16,2009 | 06:26PM
I have been to Niger on 5 missions trips working among the Songhai of Niger. We have been fortunate to walk among these endangered giraffes and get amazingly close to get some great pictures. They are so beautiful like the people there, they truly are an amazing example of God's blessing on such a dry land.
Posted by Joel Candler on April 20,2009 | 02:52PM
I never knew that these aniamls were endangered. i have never been to Niger, but it looks like a beatiful place to see and all the things that go on over there. those animals are so beautiful and peiceful. this article has informed me about things that go on in other countries. I'm glad that these animals are not endangered
Posted by Max Mondelle on September 15,2009 | 07:40AM
One of my best friends just recently came back from Safari in Africa and was talking about the amazing animals he saw. In particular he said the giraffe's were incredible and beautiful, so reading this article is kind of what he must have encountered too. I plan on going somewhere like Niger next year and can't wait to see the giraffe's. By far one of the most incredible animals.
Briany
- wood burning stoves
Posted by Briany Drake on November 12,2009 | 05:34AM