Durians Smell Awful — But the Taste Is Heavenly

  • By Henry Genthe
  • Smithsonian magazine, September 1999, Subscribe
 

"To eat it seems to be the sacrifice of self-respect," wrote 19th-century American journalist Bayard Taylor. French naturalist Henri Mouhot was a bit less delicate: "On first tasting it I thought it like the flesh of some animal in a state of putrefaction."

Hate them or — as millions already do — love them, for many durians are nothing less than "hell on the outside and heaven on the inside." That Southeast Asian saying in fact sums up the regard in which Durio zibethinus is held. For many in the region, the spiny, football-size fruit with the divinely custardy, yet potently odoriferous, flesh is as much a cultural icon as it is a treasured, eagerly anticipated food.

Growing on trees in moist, tropical climates throughout Southeast Asia, durians have a limited season and an extremely short shelf life. The trees themselves, sometimes as tall as 130 feet, are pollinated by bats. Three to four months later, the fruit, each weighing several pounds, plummets down, already reeking with its characteristic aroma. Because of the short duration of tasty ripeness, durians are expensive, and purchasing one is a solemn, smelly ritual: only by odor can one determine whether a durian is truly ripe. Not surprisingly for so valued a fruit, all parts of the durian tree are used in folk medicine. The flesh itself is regarded as an aphrodisiac.

Today, even with websites devoted to durians and improved shipping around the world, the fruit's unexpurgated flavor and smell still remain a unique experience of the East.


"To eat it seems to be the sacrifice of self-respect," wrote 19th-century American journalist Bayard Taylor. French naturalist Henri Mouhot was a bit less delicate: "On first tasting it I thought it like the flesh of some animal in a state of putrefaction."

Hate them or — as millions already do — love them, for many durians are nothing less than "hell on the outside and heaven on the inside." That Southeast Asian saying in fact sums up the regard in which Durio zibethinus is held. For many in the region, the spiny, football-size fruit with the divinely custardy, yet potently odoriferous, flesh is as much a cultural icon as it is a treasured, eagerly anticipated food.

Growing on trees in moist, tropical climates throughout Southeast Asia, durians have a limited season and an extremely short shelf life. The trees themselves, sometimes as tall as 130 feet, are pollinated by bats. Three to four months later, the fruit, each weighing several pounds, plummets down, already reeking with its characteristic aroma. Because of the short duration of tasty ripeness, durians are expensive, and purchasing one is a solemn, smelly ritual: only by odor can one determine whether a durian is truly ripe. Not surprisingly for so valued a fruit, all parts of the durian tree are used in folk medicine. The flesh itself is regarded as an aphrodisiac.

Today, even with websites devoted to durians and improved shipping around the world, the fruit's unexpurgated flavor and smell still remain a unique experience of the East.

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Comments (5)

I actually like that "characteristic aroma." I guess that's why I dedicated a year of my life to hunting durian in SE Asia. Durian haters beware, Durian Fans check it out: www.yearofthedurian.com

Posted by durianwriter on February 2,2013 | 11:17 AM

I love Durian. Now Durian Crepe come into picture. Every where talk about it even ask for Durian Crepe recipe.

Posted by akubiomed on December 4,2012 | 02:54 AM

it is quite true - the worse they smell the better they taste. try one you will love and in this case that is the truth. Nothing is as yummy as Durian. durian also makes a great candy and a great ice cream

Posted by Jim McBride on April 4,2012 | 11:45 PM

Thank God I can have my durian without smelling it. I drink the puree juice http://www.claimyoursnow.com/product-review/durians-the-king-of-fruits-durians-has-all-the-nutrients-to-live-for-years-are-does-it/

Posted by Personal Development on December 21,2011 | 02:30 PM

Durian is like red onion that has been left in the cellar for years and then marinated in acetone.

Posted by Barbara Lysaker on September 25,2009 | 09:48 PM



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