The Ten Most Spectacular Geologic Sites
Smithsonian picks the top natural wonders in the continental United States
- By Laura Helmuth
- Smithsonian.com, August 07, 2009, Subscribe
Certain travel destinations remind you that you live on a planet—an old, weathered, tectonic-plate-shifting planet. The Earth has been smothered by glaciers, eroded by wind and water, splattered with lava and slammed by debris from outer space. Yet these geologic forces have left behind some of the most fascinating must-see sites in the continental United States.
10. Lava Beds National Monument, California
Volcanic rock is vicious stuff: black, jagged, crumbly and boot-shredding. But if you look at it right, you can sense the power of the volcano that spewed it out. The Medicine Lake volcano at the northern border of California has been erupting for half a million years. (Its last gasp was 900 years ago; the next one? Who knows.) The volcano has produced some awesome classic geologic features that are easily accessible at Lava Beds National Monument.
You can see tuff (compacted ash), long flows of pahoehoe (ropy, rounded lava) and aa (the pointy rock named for the exclamations one makes when trying to walk across it). Cinder cones surround vents where lava erupted in short, gassy blasts; spatter cones were formed by thicker, heavier lava.
But the highlight of the national monument is the lava tubes. When lava flows in channels, the exterior can cool and solidify while the interior is still hot and molten. If the lava inside flushes through, it leaves behind a warren of surreal caves that are just the right size for spelunking. The park has the longest lava tubes in the continental United States; bring a flashlight to explore them. Some are deep and dark enough that they have ice year-round.
9. The Ice Age Flood Trail, Washington, Oregon and Idaho
During the last ice age, about 18,000 to 12,000 years ago, an immense lake covered the western edge of Montana. The lake water was trapped by a glacier along the Idaho panhandle that acted as a dam. When the dam melted, the entire lake—as much water as in Lake Ontario and Lake Erie combined—surged across Idaho, Oregon and Washington to the sea. It drained in about two days.
This epic flush may sound like the flash flood of all flash floods. But the whole process happened repeatedly during the last ice age and during previous ice ages as well.
These massive floods gouged out basins all along the Columbia River, deposited 200-ton boulders throughout the area and scoured the territory now known as the Scablands.
A bill to create an Ice Age National Geologic Trail (more of a driving route than a hiking trail) passed Congress this year and would establish information centers at some of the more dramatic flood sites.
8. Mammoth Cave National Park, Kentucky
It's the longest cave in the world. No other known cave comes close. About 360 miles have been surveyed so far, and geologists estimate that the cave system’s total length is about 1,000 miles.
The cave runs through 350-million-year-old limestone, composed partly of shells deposited when Kentucky was at the bottom of a shallow sea. A wide river later replaced the sea and left a layer of sandy sediment on top of the limestone. Water dissolves limestone more readily than sandstone, so over millions of years rivers and rainwater have seeped through and eroded the limestone, creating caves. You can see all the classic cave features here: stalactites, stalagmites, crystals of gypsum, blind fish, narrow passages and “bottomless pits,” which park rangers point out to scare children.
7. San Andreas Fault at the Carrizo Plain, California
For a fault that regularly topples buildings, rips apart bridges and kills people, the San Andreas can be surprisingly hard to see. The best place to observe the 800-mile-long fault is along the Carrizo Plain, west of Los Angeles. The land is undeveloped, dry and fairly barren, so the trenches formed by past earthquakes haven’t been worn away by erosion and plants don’t obscure the view.
The San Andreas is the grinding, lurching plane of contact between the Pacific Plate and the North American Plate. The Pacific Plate is pushing south-southeast and the North American is pushing north-northwest, rubbing uncomfortably against each other as they travel in opposite directions.
6. La Brea Tar Pits, California
In downtown Los Angeles, just off Wilshire Boulevard, is an unprepossessing geologic feature: a pit of oozing oil. The sticky asphalt has been trapping animals—including the occasional hapless pigeon—and preserving their skeletons for at least 40,000 years.
The museum at the tar pits displays wall after wall of dire wolves, saber-toothed cats, Columbian mammoths, ground sloths and camels. The skeletons are plentiful and beautifully preserved (the animals sank pretty quickly in their death throes). It's the best place to get a sense of the animals that roamed North America before humans arrived.
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Comments (34)
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Something I have learned: The Pacific Plate is pushing south-southeast and the North American is pushing north-northwest, rubbing uncomfortably against each other as they travel in opposite directions.
Posted by Kitchen Benchtops on December 21,2011 | 09:17 AM
Your writer should have located the Carizzo Plain in San Luis Obispo County, part of the state's Central Coast, rather than erroneously describing it as "west of Los Angeles." According to the US Dept of the Interior (http://www.blm.gov/ca/st/en/fo/bakersfield/Programs/carrizo.html), which manages it, and to any Californian giving you travel directions, the Carizzo Plain National Monument is north, not west, of Los Angeles (even latitude and longitude place it to the northwest).
Similarly, the La Brea Tar Pits are not "in downtown Los Angeles, just off Wilshire Boulevard" but are in the Miracle Mile neighborhood, about seven miles west of downtown LA. The Page Museum at the tar pits, and the lake pit, the largest pit accessible for viewing (#2 in the map at http://www.tarpits.org/visit/map) are right on Wilshire Boulevard.
Posted by Jane Auerbach on December 20,2011 | 04:07 PM
These are definately places I want to visit before I die. They're so amazing and fascinating. :)
Posted by lizzie on October 20,2011 | 03:28 PM
Oh, these places is so cliche. Thailand, China, African, Australia, and oh New Zealand is so magical. But I know this list has to be within the U.S.
Posted by River on February 17,2010 | 11:01 PM
It's really eye catching destinations of the world. In all of them mostly i like to visit Lava Beds. I am explore after visit lava beads. The monument lies on the northeast flank of the Medicine Lake Volcano, the largest volcano (total area covered) in the Cascade Range. The region in and around the monument is unique because it lies on the junction of the Sierra-Klamath, Cascade, and Great Basin physiographic provinces. Despite harsh, semi-arid conditions, native wildlife has adapted to the environmental constraints present in the region. There are no terrestrial water resources in Lava Beds National Monument. Some animals obtain water from caves, while others fly about 20 km north to Tule Lake.
Thanks & Nice Regards
Suzane Fadrik
Posted by Suzane on December 24,2009 | 01:04 AM
Great list and for me you hit the nail on the head with the Grand Canyon as the most spectacular site. And since you only limited the sites to the continental United States, Alaska itself would be my first choice if you do another list other than the US.
Mike Marlton NJ
http://www.discovermarlton.com
Posted by Mike on November 10,2009 | 03:24 PM
Another 10.
10- Big Bend National Park
9- Death Valley
8- Devil's Tower
7- Great Smokey
6- Painted Desert/Petrified Forest
5- Carlsbad Caverns: waaaaaaaaaaaaay better than Mammoth Cave
4- John Pennecamp Reef National Park
3- The Wave
2- Dinosaur National Monument
1- Hey, Sam- what about Yosemite?!
Posted by on October 30,2009 | 04:55 PM
Appreciation of Time is what is so difficult to gain a true perspective of the Earth and its processes. I am a geologist and have been exposed to the "time" factor for the past 50 years. It has broadened my perspectives on life and living, religeon, and the effects of humans on the future of this planet.
The earth has experienced more change within the last 300 years than any other time except, perhaps, for the natural events responsible for world wide catastrophies. The growing number of humans have altered the landscape,have adversely affected the quality and quantity of water,and changed the animal and plant populations to an extent where irretrievable consequences are inevitable. The Earth cannot continue to cope with the growing impacts imposed by humans. Dominion is a concept defined by humans. The sooner we recognize that this planet is acutely stressed by the human demands placed on sustainability, the more likely this earth will be able to adjust to the stresses imposed by humans.
Posted by Ronald Scrudato on October 9,2009 | 08:58 AM
In response to Rick,
But humans evolved very late on the scene. You may find it speculative or laughable, but geologic ages have been confirmed in many ways. The radiocarbon ages for the last 40,000 years are confirmed (and recalibrated by) tree ring ages and 230Th ages. Very old estimates (billions of years) for the beginnings of life are obtained from systematic variations in DNA of living things. Geologists have been obtaining myriads of quantitative radiometric ages confirmed with different isotopes for more than 50 years. The 4.5 billion year age of the earth and solar system are in good agreement with modern astronomical data, which are independent and show a universe about 13.7 billion years old. It would help if you read an introductory college text on geology or perhaps just the last 5 years of the Smithsonian Magazine. Transformation of plants to coal is a time-temperature problem, much shorter time at higher temperature. If you want something laughable try making the Grand Canyon 5000 years ago in the fabled Great Flood.
Eric Essene
Posted by Eric Essene on September 28,2009 | 02:26 PM
Thanks for the education and reminders and the guilt trip for not going to the Grand Canyon. Living in China for 6 years has given me time to visit the geologic wonders here. Guilin karst area for 100's of km is fantasyland. Crossing through 5 world famed river basins in Yunnan is a travel in wonder. The old mountains here in Shandong are so old some crumble in your hands. On and on... What a WONDERful world we have, and such a shame that peace and prosperity does not exist for everyone to visit. However, the yin and yang -we would wear out some of the sites.
It would have been proper to title as America's Ten... I would suggest some unrecognized ones...Florida being basically a "coral rock" . Lousiana being a gift of the Mississippi River Basin. Nebraska's fossil area buried by a huge volcanoo in New Mexico...
As a Michiganian, I think I might want to argue that Michigan has the most variety of geologic remains. Where is that list of states with the most varied geology?
Posted by Byron Occor on September 25,2009 | 11:48 PM
I can't imagine how you missed the ACTIVE volcanoes which are forming a new island under the ocean off the coast of Hawaii!!! Pele will NOT be pleased!!!!
Posted by Sue Cunningham on September 25,2009 | 05:33 PM
Had you included Alaska and Hawaii and not limited it to the Continental US, this list may have changed appreciably. But thanks, it does reinforce how beautiful and magnificent our country is.
Posted by Dave Giraitis on September 25,2009 | 11:47 AM
Born native of Oregon, I became enchanted by earth's geological and minerological mysteries from the moment I picked up my first tiny agate at the age of two. It had worked loose from the cement steps onto our back porch that my father'd made out of 'garden-rock' long years before I was born. The world opened up through my inocent questions :
"Daddy, how can we see through a rock?"
"How can a rock be transparent?"
"Why do agates have so many different colors?"
"Why are some colors clear while other colors in the same rock plain?"
"Where did the colors come from?"
"Why are 'pretty rocks' smooth to the touch?"
"How did round rocks get round?"
"How did the hollow spot get inside of my rock?
"How do agates and crystals get inside of other rocks when there is no hole for them to get in?"
"Why are crystals pointed?"
"What is the difference between a rock, a crystal and a mineral?"
"How did rocks get here on earth?"
"What's a volcano?"
"What's volcanic glass?"
"What's lava?"
"How can rocks melt?"
"How can rocks grow / - minerals grow /- crystals grow?"
"Where does dirt come from?"
"How do minerals get into rivers and creeks?"
Through the eyes of a child and a nurturing Father, the wonders of nature grew increasingly more complex with every quest. My personal quest has lasted 70 plus years, is still going strong, and will continue through my own children, their children and far beyond into new futures. The interelationship between nature and humankind is endless.
What beautiful pictures words can paint in our minds, yet none compare with seeing and/or experiencing the actual places where these precious wonders exist. Visit, enjoy, and preserve for all to share. The answers will come as you learn to ask the questions, and with them will come the vast beauty and beckoning roads on to brave new worlds.
Posted by Esther on September 3,2009 | 10:30 PM
I ALSO LIKE THE GREAT SMOKIES MOUNTAIN NATIONAL PARK IN TN/NC AND THE OLYMPIC NATIONAL FOREST ON THE COAST OF WASHINGTON STATE. AND LET US NOT FORGET HAWAII AND EVERYONE OF ITS UNIQUE ISLANDS AND VALCONOES. ISN'T THE EARTH VERY BEAUTIFUL!
Posted by WILFRED C. DEMERS on August 31,2009 | 12:17 AM
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