Randy Haddock stands on a muddy riverbank in central Alabama, looking over his favorite place on earth. Haddock, a slight, spectacled biologist with a trim beard, smiles as he hoists a canoe over his head, carries it to the water and launches it almost soundlessly into a calm stretch of the Cahaba River.
Between brilliant-green margins of broad-leaved trees, the Cahaba flows from its headwaters near Springville through the suburbs of Birmingham and into the heart of the state. The river slips southward with barely a murmur, unnoticed by many who live nearby. But Haddock, who has plied it for 20 years, knows the Cahaba as one of the grandest places in North America.
Biological splendor is usually associated with faraway places and fabulous creatures, rain forest river basins or African elephants. The close-to-home grandeur of the Cahaba is more subtle, counted not in jaguars or monkeys but in snails and mussels. To those willing to look closely, though, the river is as fascinating as any jungle.
The Cahaba boasts the longest free-flowing stretch of river in Alabama—140 miles—and one of the longest in the Southeast. Biologists have found that it shelters more fish species per mile than any other river in the country. Its floral attractions range from a spectacularly showy lily to a low, unassuming prairie clover, one of several local plant species that, until recently, were entirely unknown to science.
"I keep seeing things I've never seen before, so I feel compelled to keep learning," says Haddock, as he dips his paddle in the water and sets off downstream. "The Cahaba is different every time."
This overcast spring morning, our quarry is big botanical game. The river stretches ahead of our canoes in a long, silent pool, a promising sign for our small group of lily hunters. "The bigger the pool, the bigger the shoal," Haddock says. Shoals—rocky bars that reach across the river—trap lily seeds as they tumble downstream and shelter them as they sprout.
The river bends, and Haddock hears water babbling ahead. Moments later, the lilies loom into view, their bushel-size bunches arrayed in rows, their papery, moon-faced flowers forming a frothy fence. Our group falls quiet. Some of us are seeing the lilies for the first time, some for the hundredth, but the sudden expanse of blooms silences even the veterans.
As our canoes float into the rocky shoal, the lilies seem to engulf us, the giant pale flowers reaching to our chins. Though the Cahaba lily, also known as the shoals spiderlily, once grew throughout the Southeast, it's now restricted to about 70 stands. A quarter of the stands are in the Cahaba River, and one of the densest and largest is found here. Their display is as fleeting as it is rare. The lilies begin to bloom on the Cahaba in May, with each flower opening in the evening and lasting but a single day. The entire spectacle is over by mid-June.
Botanists have praised the flower's beauty for centuries: "nothing in vegetable nature was more pleasing," wrote itinerant naturalist William Bartram, who explored the Southeast just before and during the American Revolution. But few had studied the flowers, and questions remained about their basic biology.


Comments
Nicely done.
Posted by Doug Darr on July 21,2009 | 11:01AM
Fantastic article. I know lots of folks will be tickled to see it. And people like Randy and Ricky (and a host of others) are as much assets to the river as the pebble snail or sturgeon. Let's hope they keep tearing down barriers to conservation efforts.
Posted by Katie Pezzillo on July 22,2009 | 09:57PM
Pat and Readers
This is an awesome tribute to the many folks that have worked so hard to preserve this river and its treasures. The article is well written and the author fully recogizes the critical importance of saving such special places.
On a personal note, I was raised on the Little Warrior River (now called the Locust Fork) in the mining camp known as Sayre in Jefferson County. As a boy and young man, I was dazzled by these lovely lilies that bloomed on a large shoal where my Dad owned an ancient fish trap. The last time I visited my special place, the strip mining and pollution had APPARENTLY resulted in the loss of these beautiful and dainty lilies.
Pat, thanks for sharing the address on the article.
Bob Sargent
The Hummer/Bird Study Group
Clay, Alabama
Posted by Bob Sargent on July 23,2009 | 09:27AM
I am so thrilled to see this article. I live close the river and love the area. Perhaps people who don't live close to the river, or even in Alabama, can come to understand why one choses to return to live in this part of the country.
Posted by Nancy B. Mitchell on July 23,2009 | 04:43PM
Thank you for such a well written and beautifully photographed article.
Posted by Rebecca Stephens-McGill on July 25,2009 | 06:45AM
I really enjoyed the article. I had the pleasure to live on the banks of the Cahaba River for several years and it provided the most relaxing atmosphere. It is truly an American treasure.
Posted by Butch McKay on July 29,2009 | 07:39AM
Enjoyed the article on the Cahaba River in Alabama. I deer hunted 3000 acres of land that surrounded the old Cahawba capitol site for 12 years, up until 2 years ago. The area is rich in artifacts, spearheads, pottery, and old home sites. Most impressive was the numerous poorly marked grave sites that dotted the high ground around the old capitol. One site that was mistakenly uncovered contained a civil war solider, in full dress. Needless to say it was immediately covered back up. Other marked sites contained whole families that the locals say died in the many floods that occurred at the confluence of the Cahaba and the Alabama Rivers. Probably explains why the Capitol was moved. The area is a gem of ecology and history. Hopefully the coal company that purchased our leased 3000 acres doesn't have any destructive plans for the beautiful Old Cahawba.
Greg Short
Posted by greg short on July 29,2009 | 04:25PM
Our deepest thanks to Smithsonian, Beth Young and Michelle Nijhuis for telling our river's story so beautifully and well. Your article, and Beth's photos, help us build the support it will take to save this magnificent resource. I hope folks will link to our website and learn about the Cahaba's challenges - urban growth - and the solutions that are starting to make a difference for the river's future. And come on down to Alabama, get in touch with us, and go canoeing with Randy Haddock, our Mussel Man!
Posted by Beth Stewart on July 30,2009 | 12:14PM
I grew up in Bibb County in West Blocton and Centreville/Brent, AL and fished the Cahaba and the surrounding creeks and what we called the Little Cahaba or Little River which runs into the Cahaba. I "trot line" and "shoal" fished the Cahaba with my Father, Grandfather and uncles and have such wonderful memories of that river. Gotta be the best tasting cat fish in the world. I met my wife Jane (38-years ago) on a fishing trip on the Little Cahaba near Bull Dog Bend.
Thank you so much for this article and your continued support for conservation of places like this.
Posted by Billy and Jane Abston on Aug. 6. 2009
Posted by Billy Abston Sr on August 6,2009 | 11:47PM
Thanks for the story. We have more work to be done. I would like to get in touch with these folks that spear headed this mission. I have been trying to raise concerns on the terrapin creek which dumps into the coosa north of Gadsden and just south of Centre in Cherokee county Alabama. The same thing has happened when a private resturant owner took an existing mill and dammed up the ladder left from earlier years and caused fishing to come to a complete hault up creek from this point. I have been fishing on this creek for 20 yrs. and never have I seen such a drastic change. We catch 40 to 50 spotted bass and crappie below the mill and 0 above. Alabama fish and game biologist say nothing is wrong. I beg to differ. This is happening on the tallapoosa as well from middle of state to Georgia line.
Posted by Bryan Walker on August 7,2009 | 12:36PM
Even though I have moved to Florida, I still remember the wonderful canoe trips on the Cahaba, seeing the lilies in bloom and learing to canoe for the first time, solo. I am glad to see the river get its just recognition.
We talk about the ecologically diverse place that is Florida (due to so many different ecosystems here) but the Cahaba takes its rightful claim to similar descriptions due to this article.
I used to live in Selma, in an old house that was floated down the river from old Cahaba to Selma when the county seat was changed. Many memories come from living in Selma during the 60's but the Cahaba River was always a constant in our lives
Congratulations to all at Cahaba River Society for keeping up the good fight!!
Rebecca
Posted by Rebecca Falkenberry on August 10,2009 | 07:51AM
So glad to be able to access this article. There is not a copy to be found in Birmingham bookstores.
I am a native of Marion, a small city in Alabama's Blackbelt, about 30 miles from Selma. I grew up going to parties at Barton's Beach and always watching the level of the Cahaba. I remember floods that would cover miles of cropland and I also remember the river being so low that you could walk across it.
"Old Cahawba" was a place chosen for many school field trips. This is a fascinating city to study - Did you know that the City of "Old Cahawba" went into debt to host the Marquis de Lafayette on his tour of the United States? Did you also know that this abandoned city was once one of the wealthiest places in the US? There is a wealth of history in the Blackbelt. Marion, in Perry County, is a beautifully preserved place with a long history and many preserved antebellum homes. Selma, Demopolis, Eutaw, Lowndesboro, and others are all whorthy of a visit.
Unfortunately, this part of Alabama is now very poor. It has been referred to as "Alabama's Third World", with a plethora of social and economic problems. This area of Alabama has lost a lot of its population in recent years with the failure of farming. Because of the poverty in the region, it's history is probably more vulnerable to rot and decay than other parts of the State. Your group will help preserve the ecology and the remnants of a remarkable history.
I now live in a Birmingham suburb through which the Cahaba flows. Although I have always lived near the Cahaba, I have never seen the Cahaba Lily- one more thing to put on my list of "must-do's"
Posted by Carole Giardina on August 13,2009 | 10:03PM
I read with pleasure the atcile on the beautiful Cahaba lily and I'm always delighted to see Willilam Bartram get some press. Late in the Civil War a prison was opened at Cahaba to ease crowding at Andersonville. My great uncle, Joseph Tener, died there on January 15, 1865.
Joseph and three of his brothers enlisted in the 70th Ohio in October of 1861. One brother died of fever just before the battle of Shiloh and is buried in an unmarked grave. Joseph and his brother Daniel, my great-grandfather, received medical discharges in late 1862. Dynes lasted the war. Joseph re-enlisted in September 1864 and was captured in November. Joseph is also buried in an unmarked grave. Those buried in Cahaba were later reinterred at the National Cemetery in Marietta, Georgia.
My great-grandfather never really regained his health and died on August 30, 1875, 2 months shy of his 32nd birthday, leaving a widow with 2 toddlers. At least he and his brother Dynes are buried in Locust Grove Cemetery, Ohio.
I visited the site of Cahaba on a quiet, grey January 15, 2005; the outlines of the warehouse that was Cahaba Prison were barely visible. The Cahaba met the Alabama and the waters flowed on.
Posted by Gail Fishman on August 17,2009 | 07:37AM
Thank you for the splendid article on the Cahaba River and Old Cahawba, site of Alabama’s first state capitol. In 2008 a group of interested citizens established the Cahaba Foundation, an non profit 501(c)3 corporation whose mission is to secure private financial support for Old Cahawba. It's top priority is to provide funds to the Alabama Historical Commission to acquire the land in the historical town site that remains in private hands. All who are interested in preserving history and nature are invited to contribute to this effort: Cahaba Foundation, 917 Tremont Street, Selma, AL 36701
Posted by Daniel J. Meador, President, Cahaba Foundation on August 17,2009 | 07:41AM
I have lived in bibb county a major part of my life,the Cahaba river runs through the middle of it,it has some of the most breathtaking shoals and beautiful water of any stretch in all of alabama, in my opinion. I have waded, fished, boated, swam, trotlined, limb lined, picnicked,and generally enjoyed the river in all it's natural beauty, it has more species of any other waterway near. In Centreville We have a Cahaba Historical Park north of the river bridge on the east bank of the river where people can enjoy it's beauty, and it's open to the public.
It's one of Alabama's natural wonders we can all be proud of.
Larry Griffin
Posted by larry griffin on August 19,2009 | 07:13PM
Makes me homesick! I grew-up in Southeast Alabama and learned in school that Alabama is blessed with navigatable waterways. The two streams in our area were the Choctaw-atchee and Little Choctawatchee Rivers.
I know that mullet run up the 'big' river to spawn but the old electric dam on the 'little' river probably blocked their efforts. The dam is partially gone now, it would be interesting to know if the mullet are spawning in this river now.
The other thing that I believe from my casual observation over the years is that the environment of the rivers have changed, at least partially, due to treated sewage that enters into both streams. Even though the sewage is treated the amount of proteins and species that thrive on it have changed the entire ecosystem. I would like to see solid waste removed from our streams and used to fertilize our forest, etc.
Great article! Jim
Posted by James Senn on August 25,2009 | 10:58AM
This was an excellent article. The Cahaba River is an environmental treasure that needs to be preserved and protected for future generations. My family owns property on a tributary of the "Big" Cahaba River, called the Little Cahaba River. The Little Cahaba River is in suburban Birmingham and flows a relatively short distance from Lake Purdy to the "Big" Cahaba. I remember in my youth the abundance of wildlife and the unique water lilies which once grew in the Little Cahaba. Unfortunately, the lilies and many of the animal species disappeared long ago thanks to overall pollution and the erratic water flow which is controlled by the Birmingham Water Works Board (BWWB). The Little Cahaba, like many American rivers, has become a victim of overzealous development and a disregard, even disdain, for preserving and protecting the environment. Despite publicity and a 35 page "Cahaba River/Lake Purdy Watershed Protection Policy"(www. birminghamwaterworks. com), the BWWB has completely and unequivocably failed to protect not only the Little Cahaba watershed but the drinking water of the City of Birmingham. Recently, BWWB caved in to Texas mega-builder D.R. Horton and allowed its "Cotswolds" development in the heart of the watershed. BWW is not the only guilty party in this sordid story of environmental destruction. Governments at the county (Jefferson/Shelby counties) and state (Alabama Dept. of Environmental Mgmt.)level have done little or nothing to brake developmental and environmental depredation. The sad environmental story of the Little Cahaba River is warning of what could potentially happen to the "Big" Cahaba River. Environmentalists, sportsmen/sportswomen, and citizens need to make sure the pristine parts of the Cahaba River are preserved and protected for the future. Sincerely, Scott Blair
Posted by Scott Blair on September 1,2009 | 01:20PM
I saw your August edition in my doctors office yesterday and as a youth I have fished the Cahaba River more than i can count. In the 1940' we called it Lily Shouls. I have a photo of the lily in full bloom . I realy enjoyed your story and would like to purchase a copy of the August 2009 edition. I thhan you for bring back memories of my child hood.
James H. Lemley
Posted by James H, Lemley on September 10,2009 | 09:31PM
What a gorgeous article! The Cahaba is glowing representative of so many of our Southeastern rivers which are rich in life and enriching all our lives! Kudos to Randy, Beth and all the people working to protect this beautiful place - and the rivers in your back yard.
Posted by Margo Farnsworth on September 27,2009 | 12:04PM
Simple a great article. Last year, I kayaked from the new capital (Montgomery) to the old capital (Old Cahaba). Maybe next year, kayaking the Cahaba will be on the agenda.
Posted by Gerry Elam on October 9,2009 | 01:43PM