A Naturalist's Pilgrimage to the Galapagos

Smithsonian's Laura Helmuth vacationed in the Galapagos Islands and returned with even more respect for Charles Darwin

  • By Laura Helmuth
  • Smithsonian.com, January 30, 2009
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Penguin and flamingo

(Laura Helmuth)


The Galapagos hosts plenty of migrant birds, species that spend the summer in North America, say, but prefer to winter at the equator. But the full-time resident birds are the weird ones.

Depending on the time of year, ocean currents and winds can come to the Galapagos from the north, south, east or west. Flamingoes, normally found in the Caribbean, were blown here from points north. And penguins were cast away here, probably swept north in a strong current. (This one is swimming near a fishing boat on Isabela.) They evolved into their own species, the Galapagos penguin, and their range stretches across the equator. (In case it ever comes up in a trivia contest, this is the one species of penguin that is not restricted to the Southern Hemisphere.)

Seeing Caribbean-style flamingoes and Antarctic-style penguins within several hundred meters of each other seemed just so wrong in so many ways.

That's another thing that made me shake my head in admiration for Darwin--the plants and animals here are so unexpected and so confusingly adapted that it's amazing he managed to make sense of it all.

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Comments (8)

I went to the Galapagos two summers ago and absolutely fell in love with the islands. I went when I was just 16 and plan on going back. The islands are unbelievable. If you ever get the chance to go it is a must. The history and biology hidden in these islands make it a memorable trip for all ages!

I just returned from nine days in the Galapagos (May 7-16, 2009). It is expensive to get there and go on a small yacht cruise but worth every single penny. May or December are the best months to go. I strongly advise you to book this trip now and not keep putting it off like I did. I'm 36 and kicking myself that I did not do it earlier. It is an absolutely life-changing experience!

How I would love to visit this splendid place! It is incredible even today that Darwin was able to see the big picture in that one small area of the universe. If he did not profess a faith of any kind it does not refute his findings. In fact, in my mind, creation and evolution are one and the same. Our God is omnipotent! Who would doubt that it is ALL God's plan. So many don't recognize the magnificence of His power. It is not an "either/or". I believe His hand guides it all.

But, you forgot to mention that many of the islands have trails that are easy to walk on and beautiful beaches where one can share the water with playful sea lions.d

My husband and myself have to been to the Galapagos. The islands are unbelievable.

Good article. Most of the pictures were too dark.

Enjoyed reading your article...it brought back a lot of memories. As you mentioned, the wildlife is amazing and not afraid of humans. Our naturalist was from the Galapagos and was a wealth of information. I hope they can continue to protect the area. Also, removing non-native wildlife, such as goats, will only enhance & preserve this unique area. My favorite was the blue footed booby...watching them fish was fascinating. We really enjoy the Smithsonian Magazine.

A trip to the Galapagos is life changing. I'd go back every year if I could.

So, Mr. Darwin had this all figured out did he? I'm sorry he never got to know my God - who in the magnificence we live around - loved him anyway, even though he took all the credit. I hope one day you get to know Him too.



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Lava rock on Isabela Island Archipelago Galapagos mockingbird and scalesia trees Giant tortoise Prickly pear cactus Marine iguana Penguin and flamingo Blue footed booby Charles Darwin

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