A Naturalist's Pilgrimage to the Galapagos
Smithsonian's Laura Helmuth vacationed in the Galapagos Islands and returned with even more respect for Charles Darwin
- By Laura Helmuth
- Smithsonian.com, January 30, 2009

(Laura Helmuth)
One of the thrills of visiting the Galapagos is getting up close to animals. Most of the species you encounter evolved there in the absence of predators, in a sort of peaceable kingdom, so they're not particularly concerned when someone takes a picture.
Unfortunately for the giant tortoises, they didn't have any particularly useful defenses against human hunters, who wiped out some populations. (Tortoises can live for many months without food or water, so sailors stored them in ships' holds to eat later.) One of Darwin's inspirations came from an off-hand comment that sailors could tell which island a tortoise came from based on the shape of its carapace.
On islands with dense vegetation, like here in Santa Cruz, tortoises are built like tanks. They can crash through scalesia bushes, munching greenery all the way.














Comments (8)
I went to the Galapagos two summers ago and absolutely fell in love with the islands. I went when I was just 16 and plan on going back. The islands are unbelievable. If you ever get the chance to go it is a must. The history and biology hidden in these islands make it a memorable trip for all ages!
Posted by Fallon on February 21,2010 | 10:27 PM
I just returned from nine days in the Galapagos (May 7-16, 2009). It is expensive to get there and go on a small yacht cruise but worth every single penny. May or December are the best months to go. I strongly advise you to book this trip now and not keep putting it off like I did. I'm 36 and kicking myself that I did not do it earlier. It is an absolutely life-changing experience!
Posted by Sean on May 20,2009 | 12:08 PM
How I would love to visit this splendid place! It is incredible even today that Darwin was able to see the big picture in that one small area of the universe. If he did not profess a faith of any kind it does not refute his findings. In fact, in my mind, creation and evolution are one and the same. Our God is omnipotent! Who would doubt that it is ALL God's plan. So many don't recognize the magnificence of His power. It is not an "either/or". I believe His hand guides it all.
Posted by Carol on February 16,2009 | 07:31 PM
But, you forgot to mention that many of the islands have trails that are easy to walk on and beautiful beaches where one can share the water with playful sea lions.d
Posted by Byron Dann on February 8,2009 | 03:11 PM
My husband and myself have to been to the Galapagos. The islands are unbelievable.
Posted by Maureen Duckworth on February 7,2009 | 05:23 PM
Good article. Most of the pictures were too dark.
Posted by John Dalsimer on February 7,2009 | 04:42 PM
Enjoyed reading your article...it brought back a lot of memories. As you mentioned, the wildlife is amazing and not afraid of humans. Our naturalist was from the Galapagos and was a wealth of information. I hope they can continue to protect the area. Also, removing non-native wildlife, such as goats, will only enhance & preserve this unique area. My favorite was the blue footed booby...watching them fish was fascinating. We really enjoy the Smithsonian Magazine.
Posted by Larry Stadler on February 7,2009 | 04:28 PM
A trip to the Galapagos is life changing. I'd go back every year if I could.
Posted by Ann Hoagland on February 7,2009 | 03:11 PM
So, Mr. Darwin had this all figured out did he? I'm sorry he never got to know my God - who in the magnificence we live around - loved him anyway, even though he took all the credit. I hope one day you get to know Him too.
Posted by Samantha on February 7,2009 | 01:58 PM