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Tangier Island and the Way of the WatermenExplore more photos from the story |
(Page 3 of 3)
An influx in tourism to the island is also bringing in income. During the warmer months, tourists come to Tangier on more frequent ferries or via the island's small airport. Several inns and bed-and-breakfasts dot the town, and waterfront restaurants offer up crab cakes and striped bass. A budding museum chronicles the island's history, and has registered 13,000 visitors since it opened last June. There are narrated golf-cart tours of the island and some watermen take visitors out on boats for a closer look at the island's way of life.
"It helps out the economy," Eskridge says. "And because of the museum and talking with the watermen, tourists are able to learn a lot about the island."
But as erosion continues to gnaw away at Tangier island and the scarcity of crabs and oysters strains the watermen's livelihoods, Tangier residents hope that their way of life can stay strong.
"It's sad. It is real sad. I could cry to think about what's going to happen to Tangier," says Cannon, sitting in his island home on a cold January night. "I see it happening a little bit at time… Watermen got something that's unique and different from anybody else. If we lose that we might as well say forget it."
Comments
It's a shame that Md has not tried to help the watermen who depend on oystering and crabbing as a livlihood. they bailed the tobacco farmers, why not watermen? subsidise watermen put a moratorium on crabs & oysters for at least three yrs.These people arepart of our heritage and deserveur support My father was a waterman,as weremany of my uncles around Quinby Va in the late twenties and thirties and know these folks are GOD fearing people and are deserving of help Bill smith
Posted by william smith on March 28,2009 | 07:22PM
Would appear to be yet another example of Thomas Friedman's "Hot, Flat, and Crowded"--emphasis on crowded, a world-wide problem.
Posted by Bill Leake on March 29,2009 | 10:13AM
I visited Tangier Island many years ago. The natives were unfriendly, unhelpful and as far as I could determine, unhapy. Even though the island is rich in history and a nice getaway from Washington DC, I have never returned and do not plan to.
Posted by Jim Newman on March 29,2009 | 10:27AM
If the crab population has plummeted from 800 million to 200 million it would seem that the communities that exist on the periphery of the bay and the waters that feed it need to rebuild their soil processing facilities to make sure that pollution doesn't cause oxygen depletion in the waters of the bay. There are newer processing facilities that help to keep the water clear and clean. Langley, Washington, a small community on Whidbey Island has one where the final product of processed soil and wood chips is clean enough to use in the garden. I've also heard there are ways of heat treating the soil to get rid of toxic material, but the sludge does need to be composted for a couple of years afterwards to make sure it doesn't have a particular compound that forms under high heat and pressure. I'm sure there are other ways of processing the waste safely also, and not all low oxygen situations are caused by poorly processed soil effluent. In Puget Sound there is one area where low oxygen levels are being studied and it has been attributed to high nitrogen runoff levels from Alder trees, and/or fertilizer and septic systems.
Posted by Wellman on March 29,2009 | 06:43PM
I have to agree with Jim above. I took my family to Tangier Island a few years ago and found the folks there were generally not very hospitable to visitors. We spent an entire day there and never once felt welcome. One would think that with the history of the island and the close proximity to some of the east coast major metropolitan areas, the Island could easily become quite the tourist attraction perhaps generating some substantial income to replace the loss of income from crabbing and fishing. While I believe the state should assist Tangier Island residents to achieve that goal, the residents must first change their attitudes and become a more cheerful bunch of folks. The resident of Tangier Island are sitting on a virtual gold mine of tourist dollars if only they were willing to explore that opportunity.
Posted by Bill Atkinson on March 29,2009 | 08:18PM
Jim, I'm not sure what island you visited as your summary of the locals is one that isn't easily matched to the Tangier that I know.
Posted by Brock Beatty on March 30,2009 | 05:23AM
I'm always amazed how people can have such opposite experiences when visiting new places. I flew over to Tangiers with some friends this spring and could not have found people any more welcoming and friendly. Had the best crab cakes known to man.
Posted by Rick Johnston on March 30,2009 | 07:38AM
I know Tangier Island fairly well. The folks are friendly but slightly wary at first, sort of like rural New Englanders. Once they know you aren't going to make fun of them as I have witnessed many a tourist do, and that you appreciate the rustic charms of their island life, they are delightful people. Hard working, honest folks. The island is amazing for its authenticy and for all the things it's not considering what a "plastic Wal-mart" country we have become. Its refreshing to be able to share for a little while a place where people live in the rhythm of the tides.
Posted by Donna Bozza on March 30,2009 | 09:29AM
WE VISITED TANGIER ISLAND ON OUR BOAT DURING OUR GREAT LOOP TRIP IN 2004 AND TREASURE OUR MEMORIES OF THOSE 2 DAYS. THE PEOPLE WERE FRIENDLY AND PLEASANT AND HELPFUL. WE HOPE TO VISIT AGAIN SOMEDAY AND SEND OUR BEST WISHES AND PRAYERS
Posted by DANCINGBAEHR on March 30,2009 | 12:55PM
We too had a negative experience on Tangier a decade ago, visiting on a daytrip, observing that the residents seemed to just tolerate visitors. But a friend who knew the Bay suggested we try visiting even tinier Tylerton, a village of roughly 50 watermen/women just to the north in Maryland, on Smith Island. What a find! For me, a life-altering experience. We spent seven wedding anniversaries in the unique Inn of Silent Music, Tylerton's only B&B. We got to know the island's people, natural rhythms, spectacular beauty, history, fragility, spirit. Balto Sun travel writer Tom Horton memorialized Tylerton in his wonderful book, "An Island Out of Time" -- a pun, because Smith Island and Tangier Island (1) have archaic qualities & (2) are slowly sinking, with their future down to a few decades at best. I grew so enchanted with Tylerton & its people that part of my heart will always remain there.
Posted by Fred Schroyer on March 31,2009 | 07:48PM
Maybe the islanders are wary because they see what has happened to other locales that depended on the bays. Look at eastern Long Island, NY and Cape Cod. The dudes building their trophy houses and five car garages with expanses of lawn and golf courses contributed to the demise of clam beds, fishing, and general recreation on the shore. Fences because THEY did not want the rif-raf crossing their property, even though the right of way was open. If they are too friendly the parasites may decide to stay.
Posted by Phil on March 31,2009 | 07:49PM
It saddens me that more regulations are not in place for how we polute in this country. We do not need to have the greenest weed-free grass to enjoy life and variations it holds. We should not let our waters be poluted by any industries espescially the farming industry. We are such a self centered society that this generation is allowing changes that may be even harder to heal than our parents generation. I lived in NJ (once considered the cancer state). It contained some of the most poluted rivers. They have been cleaned up yet I wonder how clean they really are. We must encourage regulations on all industries as well as the banking and housing etc. Because we as a country seem to believe that I "must get mine" then I will worry how to clean it up wether it is the seas, waterways, food or banks and the stockmarket. Thank you, Amanda Meglio
Posted by Amanda Meglio on April 1,2009 | 05:29AM
I WORKED ON THE MD. OYSTER PROGRAM WE WOULD DREDGE UP VERY OLD OYSTER SHELL'S PUT THEM ON BARGE'S AND TAKE THEM DOWN THE BAY TO SPECIFIC AREA'S AND WASH THEM OFF WITH BIG HIGH POWERED WATER GUN'S AND THEN PEOPLE FROM THE MD. OYSTER PROGRAM WOULD PUT SPAT'S(BABY OYSTER'S WITH NO SHELL)IN THE WATER TO MAKE NEW OYSTER BAR'S AND FROM WHAT I SAW THE PROGRAM WORKED.I THINK 2 PROBLEM'S ARE THE POLLUTANT'S AND THE OVER TAKING OF THE OYSTER'S AND CRAB'S FROM THE BAY
Posted by sean on April 1,2009 | 09:05AM
We enjoyed an Elderhostel in Critchfield a couple years ago and also enjoyed a wonderful meal over on Tangiers. I have a hunch that if the folks who run the chicken operations would clean up THEIR acts, the whole area would benefit. Surely there is something they can do, rather than have their run off empty into the Chespeake. Felt it was interesting at that time, that there maybe have been 33 or some number like that - cars on the island - they didn't know which state they were in so NO one used license plates. We thought it was a lovely place. Wish you had shown more pictures of the island and its people. How about an entire article on Smith and Tangiers?
Posted by Peggy Parker on April 10,2009 | 11:36AM
Local Islander's need to work on "Stop polluting the water"! People have been throwing trash, oil bottles,old bicycles, ect..in the waters of Tangier for YEARS! I would THINK if you are "earning a living" on the water you would certainly want to keep the waters clean! I live on the coast of North Carolina where we have many small islands and beaches..none of which is full of human trash! I have family that was born and raised on Tangier and visited often as a child/teen. I think that the street littering may have gotten better over the past few years. I'm not so sure about the littering of the bay? I think if STIFF fines for littering would have been utilized and adults teaching their children not to throw trash in the bay the population of sea life would be better! I'm sorry for the hardships of the local waterman..but not surprised of the lack of sea life!
Posted by Ruth Gehr on May 19,2009 | 04:30AM
I visited Tangier Island several years ago when I sailed from NC to the Chesapeake for a summer. My sailing buddy and I were welcomed at the dock with extra hands to take the dock lines and if memory serves me correct, the dock fee was only $20 per night for a 32' boat.
We walked the island from one side to another and I found it quite unique and comfortable. I will visit again by boat sometime!
Posted by Rick Vaughan on June 23,2009 | 06:26AM
Like most estuaries, the Chesapeake reflects decades of disregard for our most precious of ecosystems and their watersheds. Now that we have altered the basic chemistry and biology of the ecosystems with unabated pollution, we wonder how to stem the tide of ecological disaster. I fear that, barring the expenditure of $$billions, it's pretty much too late to truly mitigate, if not reverse the trends. We've played too long at the expense of Nature, and she's given all she's had, and now she's too exhausted to remain vital. The Watermen are just another victim in the parade of tragedies that lie in witness to our self-centerdness. We can't blame ignoreance. Rachel Carson warned us more than 40 years agao. Truly sad for all involved.
Posted by John Travassos on July 28,2009 | 03:26PM
Recent visit there with my husband. Really liked the boat ride! the island is very small,and the creepy thing was all the grave markers everywhere; on peoples lawns especially. It must be scary on Halloween there! A very rugged life is had there. We would not go there again. Not a pretty place. J. Haage
Posted by j.haage on August 13,2009 | 07:04PM
I visited a few yrs ago, by way of a 17' sailboat from Reedville, VA, with my dog Bill. Mr. Parks, who lives in the brick house right in front of the row of slips on the SW side of the main channel that cuts through the N part of the island, was very friendly. I had an early breakfast at a little spot where many of the local watermen gather for morning coffee. When I walked in, I could feel everyone's eyes on me: it was obvious that not too many tourists stop in there; they probably thought I was lost. But the waitress was friendly. Overhearing conversation, I did have trouble following some of it and many of the parts I could, I found to be worded differently than what I typically hear in OH.
Then I spent the day walking all over the island. Everyone I passed on the road was friendly. When I left the next morning, Mr. Parks gave me a big break on my bill for the slip and invited me to come back anytime. I'm sure he appreciated the fact that I wasn't loud & rowdy as probably some of the visiting sailors, & I wasn't going around the island being vulgar & offensive as probably some of the tourists are.
I didn't notice the article mentioning that the islanders turned down the offer of the producers of the '99 Kevin Costner/Paul Newman movie "Message in a Bottle", who wanted to use the island for their site. They turned down probably a good chunk of money because the movie included a scene where two people were sleeping together who weren't married. It isn't often that you find a community who is willing to stand up for principles like that. The movie was instead filmed down on the Outer Banks instead, as I recall.
Approaching channel from W.
http://www.htmills.com/images/LF-TangierDocks.jpg
View from Factory Rd bridge, looking NE.
http://www.htmills.com/images/LF-TangierIsland.jpg
Limited room.
http://www.htmills.com/images/LF-TangierIslandHome.jpg
Leaving Tangier for Crisfield, Looking W.
http://www.htmills.com/images/LF-tangierchannel.jpg
Posted by Tod Mills on September 25,2009 | 11:43AM
I visited Tangier Island last week with a few friends, including the State Senator who represents the Island. I found the people quite friendly and hospitable. It was off-season but we had a delicious lunch of crab cakes at Lorraine's, took a tour of the Island via a golf cart.It was Holoween and every child on the Island was dressed up for Trick or Treating. The Tangier Island museum is an excellent place to visit. It really gives you a view of life over time on this small Virginia enclave with a life style all it's own. I plan to return and spend the night at a local B&B. It's a wonderful place to bring visitors from the "big city" who have never realized such a place exists. We have a lot to learn from these Watermen who with determination have stuggled to keep the industry and their life style alive despite many natural and economic hardships.Hi to all, especially, to Mr. Tom Parks, our kind host for the visit.
Posted by Marylin Copeland on November 3,2009 | 06:08AM