Smithsonian Magazine: March 2009

March 2009 Issue Cover

Features

15 Must-See Endangered Cultural Sites

Some of the world's most precious historic and artistic sites can be visited today—but might be gone tomorrow
By The Smithsonian Staff

Fenestrelle Fortress, Italy

The Great Wall of the Alps
By T. A. Frail

Church of the Nativity, Bethlehem

Holy War
By Abigail Tucker

Chan Chan, Peru

End of an Empire
By Bruce Hathaway

The Hill of Tara, Ireland

Where Kings Once Tread
By Amanda Bensen

The City of Hasankeyf, Turkey

A Sunken Treasure?
By Diane M. Bolz

Xumishan Grottoes, China

Under the Gaze of Buddha
By Lyn Garrity

Historic Route 66, U.S.A.

The Mother Road
By Megan Gambino

Endangered Site: Dampier Rock Complex, Australia

Written in Stone
By Laura Helmuth

Visoki Decani Monastery, Kosovo

A Medieval Refuge
By Kathleen Burke

Jaisalmer Fort, India

The Golden Stronghold
By Anika Gupta

Bingham's List

As Jews in France tried to flee the Nazi occupation, an American diplomat named Harry Bingham defied his own government to speed them to safety
By Peter Eisner

Out of Rembrandt's Shadow

Renowned in his day, Jan Lievens was later eclipsed by his friend and rival. A new exhibition establishes his reputation as an old master
By Matthew Gurewitsch

Getting Past the Troubles

A decade after Protestants and Catholics agreed on a peace treaty in Northern Ireland, both sides are adjusting to a hopeful new reality
By Joshua Hammer

Happy As Clams

In the Pacific Northwest, fishermen and others are cashing in on the growing yen for a funny-looking mollusk turned worldwide delicacy
By Craig Welch

Departments

Indelible Images

Monument Valley Girl

Cindy Sherman's self-portrait plays with our notions of an archetypal West
By Victoria Olsen

Digs

Devil's Half Acre

The excavation of a notorious jail recalls Richmond, Virginia's leading role in the slave trade
By Abigail Tucker

My Kind of Town

Steeped in Story

The lyrical novelist says the city is more than her hometown, it's her life
By Josephine Humphreys

Presence of Mind

Which Way Out?

The author discovers the surprising satisfactions of a home funeral
By Max Alexander

From the Editor

Paying Attention

Ten Sites and One Overlooked Hero
By Carey Winfrey

Letters to the Editor

Letters

Readers Respond to the January Issue
By Smithsonian magazine

This Month in History

March Anniversaries

Momentous or Merely Memorable
By Alison McLean

Wild Things

Wild Things:
Life as We Know It

Mosquitoes, New Zealand flightless birds, pink lizards and more
By Amanda Bensen, Joseph Caputo, T.A. Frail, Jesse Rhodes and Abigail Tucker

From the Castle

Science, yes!

By G. Wayne Clough

Around the Mall

Bone Cops

Smithsonian researchers solve a colonial cold case
By Joseph Caputo

Around the Mall

Sing Like A Pirate

By Joseph Caputo

The Object at Hand

Under the Radar

The five-pound RQ-14A takes high-tech reconnaissance to new heights
By Owen Edwards

Q&A

Q&A: Ori Gersht

By Joseph Caputo

Around the Mall

What's In A Name?

By Joseph Caputo

What's Up

What's Up

By Joseph Caputo

The Last Page

Let a Thousand Bobbleheads Bloom

How China's "Great Helmsman" became the King of Kitsch
By Bill Brubaker

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