Back at the Massaya Winery, Ramzi Ghosn takes another sip of arak and marvels at Lebanon's ability to embrace the good life during the darkest of days. "Even if you're a Sunni or a Shia in Lebanon, you always knew that your neighbor might be a Christian and would be consuming wine," he says. "We're not so good at producing airplanes or tanks, but in terms of food and drink, we surpass everyone in the world."
Writer Joshua Hammer is based in Berlin.
Photographer Kate Brooks has lived in Beirut for three years.