Wainwright painstakingly wrote many words in his guidebooks about the abiding passion of his life. But as I look back with nostalgia on nearly 200 miles in his good company and in the company of England, a simple note in A Coast to Coast Walk is my favorite: "There will be other years, other visits," A.W. wrote. "The hills will wait."
From Manchester International Airport take the train into Manchester Piccadilly Station. Catch a train to Carlisle, and there, switch to another for St. Bees (www.stbees.org.uk). INSIDE TIP: Walk with naught but the shirt on your back: Sherpa (www.sherpa-walking-holidays.co.uk; 44 2085 772717) and other services will carry your bags for you.
FOR INFORMATION: Try Doreen Whitehead's B & B guide (firstname.lastname@example.org; 44 1748 886374) and visit Coast to Coast Guides (www.coasttocoastguides.co.uk) and the Wainwright Society (www.wainwright.org.uk).