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Meet Me at the Automat

Horn & Hardart gave big city Americans a taste of good fast food in its chrome-and-glass restaurants

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  • By Carolyn Hughes Crowley
  • Smithsonian magazine, August 2001, Subscribe
 

It was once the world’s largest restaurant chain, serving 800,000 people a day. It was Horn & Hardart, and its cavernous, waiterless establishments represented a combination of fast-food, vending and cafeteria-style eateries. These restaurants, with their chrome-and-glass coin-operated machines, brought high-tech, inexpensive eating to a low-tech era. Making their debut in Philadelphia in 1902, just up the street from Independence Hall, and reaching Manhattan in 1912, Horn & Hardart Automats became an American icon, celebrated in song and humor. With their uniform recipes and centralized commissary system of supplying their restaurants, the Automats were America’s first major fast-food chain.

Although no longer a commercial enterprise, the Automat nonetheless has survived as a relic of Americana. Beautifully ornate with its mirrors, marble and marquetry, a 35-foot piece of Philadelphia’s 1902 Horn & Hardart is in the Smithsonian’s National Museum of American History.

Founded by Joseph Horn and German-born Frank Hardart, the restaurants were a new concept in food service, borrowed from a successful German eatery. The Automats immediately captured America’s interest and imagination. They were the restaurant industry’s first attempt at emulating the assembly line.

Customers put together their own meals in a continuous, moving operation. Hot food was always hot—and savory. Automats, moreover, always sought to offer the widest possible variety of culinary choices.

In huge rectangular halls filled with shiny, lacquered tables, women with rubber tips on their fingers—"nickel throwers," as they became known—in glass booths gave customers the five-cent pieces required to operate the food machines in exchange for larger coins and paper money. Customers scooped up their nickels, then slipped them into slots in the Automats and turned the chrome-plated knobs with their porcelain centers. In a few seconds the compartment next to the slot revolved into place to present the desired cold food to the customer through a small glass door that opened and closed. Diners picked up hot foods at buffet-style steam tables.

The word "automat" comes from the Greek automatos, meaning "self-acting." But Automats weren’t truly automatic. They were heavily staffed. As a customer removed a compartment’s contents, a behind-the-machine human quickly slipped another sandwich, salad, piece of pie or coffee cake into the vacated chamber.

Customers found many advantages in this style of dining. They could see the food before buying it. They thought the glass-fronted compartments and shiny fittings were sanitary, a comforting reassurance after the food contamination scares of the time.

Patrons were discouraged from tipping. Nor did any cash register reveal the cost of a meal for all to see; the coin slots kept thrifty customers’ dining expenditures discreetly hidden.


It was once the world’s largest restaurant chain, serving 800,000 people a day. It was Horn & Hardart, and its cavernous, waiterless establishments represented a combination of fast-food, vending and cafeteria-style eateries. These restaurants, with their chrome-and-glass coin-operated machines, brought high-tech, inexpensive eating to a low-tech era. Making their debut in Philadelphia in 1902, just up the street from Independence Hall, and reaching Manhattan in 1912, Horn & Hardart Automats became an American icon, celebrated in song and humor. With their uniform recipes and centralized commissary system of supplying their restaurants, the Automats were America’s first major fast-food chain.

Although no longer a commercial enterprise, the Automat nonetheless has survived as a relic of Americana. Beautifully ornate with its mirrors, marble and marquetry, a 35-foot piece of Philadelphia’s 1902 Horn & Hardart is in the Smithsonian’s National Museum of American History.

Founded by Joseph Horn and German-born Frank Hardart, the restaurants were a new concept in food service, borrowed from a successful German eatery. The Automats immediately captured America’s interest and imagination. They were the restaurant industry’s first attempt at emulating the assembly line.

Customers put together their own meals in a continuous, moving operation. Hot food was always hot—and savory. Automats, moreover, always sought to offer the widest possible variety of culinary choices.

In huge rectangular halls filled with shiny, lacquered tables, women with rubber tips on their fingers—"nickel throwers," as they became known—in glass booths gave customers the five-cent pieces required to operate the food machines in exchange for larger coins and paper money. Customers scooped up their nickels, then slipped them into slots in the Automats and turned the chrome-plated knobs with their porcelain centers. In a few seconds the compartment next to the slot revolved into place to present the desired cold food to the customer through a small glass door that opened and closed. Diners picked up hot foods at buffet-style steam tables.

The word "automat" comes from the Greek automatos, meaning "self-acting." But Automats weren’t truly automatic. They were heavily staffed. As a customer removed a compartment’s contents, a behind-the-machine human quickly slipped another sandwich, salad, piece of pie or coffee cake into the vacated chamber.

Customers found many advantages in this style of dining. They could see the food before buying it. They thought the glass-fronted compartments and shiny fittings were sanitary, a comforting reassurance after the food contamination scares of the time.

Patrons were discouraged from tipping. Nor did any cash register reveal the cost of a meal for all to see; the coin slots kept thrifty customers’ dining expenditures discreetly hidden.

Diners could sit wherever they chose. Automats could be great equalizers because paupers and investment bankers might sit together at the same table. And Automats were something special to children. With a handful of change, they could choose a meal from foods they liked.

Horn & Hardart Automats had a strict fresh-food policy. No food could be left overnight in any of its restaurants—or its retail shops (whose motto was "Less Work for Mother"), which sold prepackaged Automat food. After closing time each day, Horn & Hardart trucks carried surplus food to "day-old" shops. New York and Philadelphia each had three, located in low-income neighborhoods, which sold these items at reduced prices.

Automats enforced quality control. The leather-bound rule book every manager received listed the proper handling of the nearly 400 menu items, described precisely where to position the buffet-style food on the plates and stated the number of times employees were to wipe tabletops each day.

Daily, founders Horn and Hardart and other executives lunched together at the Sample Table (or the "ulcer table," as some disgruntled workers dubbed it). To test for quality and uniformity, they ate regular items and offered suggestions for new ones. And they judged whether new ingredients that outside suppliers offered were superior to those that were already in use.

Between courses, samplers sipped black coffee. Each day that beverage came from a different Horn & Hardart outlet. In this way, Horn & Hardart performed spot checks on coffee, the most commonly ordered item. The precise amount gushed from the mouth of a chrome dolphin’s head (copied from a Pompeian fountain) at an exactly calibrated temperature.

Horn & Hardart’s coffee became known as the best in town. In their heyday in the 1950s, Automats sold more than 90 million cups of fresh-brewed coffee each year. From 1912 to 1950, a cup cost a nickel.

Horn & Hardart introduced the first fresh-drip brewed coffee to Philadelphia and New York. Before then, coffee on the East Coast had been a harsh, brackish drink made by boiling it interminably with eggshells to clarify it.

After brewing each batch of their coffee, Horn & Hardart employees filled out a time card. After 20 minutes, they discarded whatever coffee remained and prepared more. Irving Berlin, the composer of "God Bless America," wrote a famous song about this delicious brew, "Let’s Have Another Cup of Coffee," which became Horn & Hardart’s theme song.

For diners who were really in such a rush, the company provided stand-up counters similar to those that banks provide for writing deposit slips. These people ate what became known as "perpendicular meals."

But Horn & Hardart had a restaurant for every kind of clientele. Philadelphia’s Automats were haunts for actors, hotel guests and merchants along Jewelers Row. Though Horn & Hardart did not allow smoking, Walter Winchell and other journalists ate at New York’s Automats. The restaurants didn’t hustle folks out who lingered over their meal—or even those who bought no food.

Automats fell victim to consumers’ changing tastes. Perhaps people tired of cafeteria-style food. Many no longer ate a full meal at lunch. Americans moved into the suburbs and didn’t come downtown as often, so night business at Automats fell too. With lower labor and food costs, the modern kind of fast-food restaurants, such as McDonald’s, White Castle and theme-food emporiums, competed too successfully.

In the 1970s Horn & Hardart replaced its dying restaurants with Burger King franchises. The generation that ate at these new fast-food outlets didn’t miss the charm of Automats’ fancy fixtures and diverse menu. Upscale power lunchers had no use for Automats’ simple fare.

The last Automat closed in New York City in 1991, lamented by those who remembered what the chain had stood for: quality, service and cleanliness.

by Carolyn Hughes Crowley


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Comments (41)

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They predate credit cards, and taught us how to budget, with less than a dollar, or far less. Lived 18 miles out on LI in 1943 to 1947, went to high school in Brooklyn; cross country practice up on Van Courtland ParK .Subway back down to mid town. Got off on on 42 nd. Horn and Hardet across from Grand Central with some teammates. Left one another,jogged to Penn Station to LIRR & home.Homework finished on the train, dinner over, thanks to Horn & Hardet. Still remember them at 83 years of age. Never ate alone there. Robert J. Boyle

Posted by Robert J. BOYLE on January 21,2013 | 07:22 PM

I think it would really fly today!

Posted by Sandi on January 12,2013 | 02:40 PM

You got off the trains below street level, walked out into the main concourse, then looked up and left to the largest illuminated sign in the city. Then you turned right and walked up two large flights of magnificent marble stairs. Out the doors and under the street-side canopy, you looked left down to the end of the block -- and there across the street was the Horn & Hardart Automat, quick and inexpensive and easy. I was a young teenager the first time I took the train into New York City by myself, arriving at Grand Central Station on 42nd Street at Sixth Avenue. I walked the same route that I had gone before several times with my parents; my dad worked for many years in the Esso offices at 51 West 51st Street, then moved to the main office of Standard Oil (NJ) at 30 Rockefeller Plaza. I went up and met him for lunch that day, but I don't remember if we ate at the Automat that one time in the spring of 1965. As a family we ate there more than once, on trips into the City for museum visits, shows, shopping or other occasions. Things come and go, but memories should be passed on.

Posted by David B. Tuttle on April 28,2012 | 07:45 PM

I love the reminiscences. In London, England when I was a working musician in the West End, Lyons Corner House was a favorite eaterie. You could also almost get employment there, washing pots and pans,for Joe Lyons,to help you with your rent etc. and sometimes it was preferible to busking in the street. Now living in Canada and visiting the U.S.A. quite frequently my favorite eaterie is the Golden Corral in Marysville W.A.

Posted by jim reid on March 29,2012 | 12:33 AM

Beautiful memories with my mother on Labor Day weekend 1948. The day started with a boat ride down the Deleware River to Riverview Beach in New Jersey. Upon returning to Philly my mother and I had dinner at the H&H at 9th and Market. I was 14 at the time with a handful of nickels and could not wait to insert my nickel for the best hot chocolate in the world. I was so excited that I forgot to put the cup under the lions head! I remember my mother smiling at me as she handed me another nickel. I'm 77 years old now, and memories of so many happy times with my mother at H&H are treasured. I also recall taking my wife there in 1960. She was an "upstater", and sadly had never experienced the wonderful H&H.

Posted by William Francis McCann on March 19,2012 | 08:08 PM

I was born in Phila. pA in 1940. We use to eat at Horn Hardart. I always remember eating hamburger steak, carrots, harvard beets and mash potatoes. as a kid it was my favorite meal. How did they make the carrots?

Posted by trudy weiss on January 15,2012 | 01:28 PM

I have seen new automats in Spain last year (november 2011. I have seen them in Marbella. They are from a company called Braimex. I checked out the website and they are manufactures of these hot food vending machines. The restaurant where they are installed is called The Food Company. So the automat is still alive!

Posted by Marc on January 12,2012 | 08:15 AM

I was in the Army Reserve and sent to Germany in 1990, I recall eating in a restaurant there that had a H&H wall of glass slots, I was in serveral cities and I think it was in Berlin. Worked in NYC in 60's, the H&H 42nd st and 8th ave, had a section for Women and children only.

Posted by Arthur Hirsch on January 5,2012 | 02:00 AM

i was born in the bronx,but we moved to michigan. for years when we would travel back to visit, my uncle clarence, who worked at H&H, would always bring me cheesecake. wonderful, yummy cheesecake. when i became an adult, my mom would fly there and always brought a cheesecake home, hand delivered on the airplane. does anyone know who or what company made them. i have been trying for years to get an authentic new york cheewecake or the recipe. phooey to these refrigerated make believes.

Posted by vici farrell on October 13,2011 | 12:22 PM

Summer of '65; I was 15 going on 16 and wanted to work. There weren't a lot of opportunities in my part of Jersey, so I spent the summer with my grandmother who lived on East 12th Street in Brooklyn. I looked older, so when I applied for a job at a cashier at Big Apple by Kings Highway and told them I was 18, nobody asked me for proof and I got the job. There was an automat within close proximity, and I often ate there, because the food was good, cheap, and I was saving my money. I especially loved the mac 'n cheese. When the fall came, I had to tell them I was going back to school in Jersey.

Posted by Lynda Ehrich on September 24,2011 | 09:20 PM

I only vaguely remember the Horn and Hardart located at Cottman Avenue and Large Street in Northeast Phila. There was a gang which had some members affiliated with my grade school, Our Lady of Ransom. They used to call themselves the H&H gang. I used to see the H&H logo carved into the bathroom walls etc. or on the outside walls at Solis-Cohen elementary school. Yet, it was at Solis-Cohen where I first seen and heard of the gang. I think most of the gang was catholic, but some went to public school. I never tried to find out what the symbol meant, but it was my mother years later who told me that they used to hang out in front of the Horn and Hardart’s. When I was very young one of the gang members lived up the street from me. I remember his last name being Murray and he was a red head. He took a protective liking to me. Not having an older brother was often a handicap when living in the city. He used to smoke and he told me he never wanted to see me smoking for it was bad for me. It was a threat, but being so much younger I knew he would not really hurt me. One day in the winter when I was probably in the 5th grade or so I pretended I was smoking by inhaling on a candy cigarette stick. The cold air turned my breath into a fog and I wanted to see what he would do. Just like a protective brother, he crossed the street while yelling at me for smoking and just before he went to remove the candy stick I showed him I was joking with a bit of nervous laughter. Yet, after that surprising act of kindness I did not have the heart to pull another such stunt on him. One time when I was walking by the gang while they were hanging out at Solis-Cohen they were are huddled around looking at some playing cards which I found out had some sex scenes or the like on the other side. He again steered me away from that pollution. I never knew what happened to the gang, but like Murray there were some not so bad eggs. Anyway, that is my connection to the H&H memories.

Posted by John C. on July 30,2011 | 04:37 PM

JUST AFTER THE WAR STARTED IN 1941 MY FATHER WHO WAS IN THE MARINE CORPS WAS SENT OVER SEAS, WE WERE LIVING IN AN APT HOUSE ON VINE ST. TO MAKE EXTRA MONEY I BUILT A SMALL SHOE SHINE KIT FROM AN OLD ORANGE CRATE I TOOK FROM ONE OF THE "AMERICAN STORES" DOWN THE STREET..I SET MYSELF UP IN FRONT OF H&H ON BROAD STEET IN PHILLY. I WOULD GUESS I WAS 8 OR 9 YEARS OLD.. I HAD BLACK AND BROWN POLISH ONLY, COULDN'T AFFORD ANY MORE, GOT AN OLD SHIRT AND RIPPED IT IN PIECES AND USED IT AS A SHINE RAG, I CHARGED 10 PER SHINE, MADE ABOUT $1.OO PER DAY, THAT WAS GOOD...WHEN I GOT COLD I RECALL THAT IN FRONT OF H&H WAS A LARGE WIDE GRATE WITH THE STEAM COMING UP, , I THINK FROM THE SUBWAY, I WOULD STAND ON THE GRATE TO GET WARM OFTEN TIMES IF I LOOKED CLOSELY DOWN INTO THE BOTTOM OF THE GRATE (MAYBE 15 FT.) AND SPOTED A COIN, I HAD A VERY LONG STRING WITH A BOLT ON THE END FOR WEIGHT, I TOOK THE GUM FROM MY MOUTH AND STUCK IT ON THE END OF THE BOLT, I THEN TOOK A MATCH FROM MY POCKET, LITE IT AND WARMED UP THE WAD OF GUM UNTIL IT BECAME STICKY,I THEN DROPPED IT INTO THE GRATE AND LOWERED IT ONTOP OF THE COIN, IT STUCK TO THE COIN AND I PULLED IT UP, I GOT VERY GOOD AT THIS AFTER A WHILE, ONE TIME I WAS SO EXCITED BECAUSE I RETRIEVED A 50 CENT PIECE..ANYWAY I WOULD GO INTO H&H AND BUY A HOT CUP OF COCOA I THINK FOR A NICKEL, IT WAS SO GOOD. SO MANY MEMORIES, I SHINED A LOT OF SAILORS SHOES IN THE FRONT OF HORN AND HARDARTS. LOVED THAT PLACE. WELL EVENTUALLY MY FATHER CAME HOME SAFE (4TH. MARINE DIVISION) AND HE WAS TRANSFERRED TO TIBURON CALIF. HERE WE REMAINED . I CAN STILL CLOSE MY EYES AND SMELL THE SMELL.

Posted by JOHN O. GOFF on May 6,2011 | 04:20 PM

I, too, grew up in the Bronx in the 1950's and like so many others have written, it was always such a thrill to ride the subway to the city and dine at Horn and Hardart after shopping on 34th Street! My Mom and Aunt, sister and I would shop at Macy's and of course my favorite at the time, Woolworths and then came the fun of the Automat! Still remember ordering the mashed potatoes, creamed spinach and creamed corn! All starches, my Mom would say, shaking her head but she let me order it from the ladies wearing the little white lace aprons. How grown up my sister and I felt when we put our money into the hot chocolate machine and watched as it poured out the worlds best tasting hot chocolate, especially to two girls who hardly ever got any because we were allergic! What a treat! We would be on our best behavior there, feeling like we were movie stars in New York City! Ah, youth! Loved putting those nickels into the little slots and getting that delicious apple pie or a pumpkin pie. Their butter cookies were out of this world too and two came on the plate, perfect for my sister and I! I was able to take my son to the last one in the city the year it closed so he could experience the Automat for himself and he loved it too. Four generations managed to love that place. We will never forget it. I managed to buy two forks when they were going out of business, something I will always treasure.

Posted by Puttie Williamson on April 25,2011 | 06:02 PM

The O'Shaughnessy all eat at h&h at k and a. I remember My mother took us in a cab from Memphis and lehigh sts on friday nights for fish cake platter and a coke. it was about 35 cents at H $ H.but boy was that good. now you could get killed at k and a.

Posted by anne denofa on December 11,2010 | 07:53 AM

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