Tales From the Appalachian Trail
The stories of ten hikers who have traveled the 2,000-mile-path through the eastern United States tell the history of the trail
- By Megan Gambino
- Smithsonian.com, July 14, 2009, Subscribe
At 2,178 miles, the Appalachian Trail is the nation’s longest marked footpath. Starting at Springer Mountain in Georgia, it crosses 14 states, six national parks and eight national forests on its way north to Maine’s Mount Katahdin. But despite the trail’s daunting length, more than 10,000 people—called “2,000-milers”—walked it in its entirety, in sections over time or as a whole. In light of “Earl Shaffer and the Appalachian Trail,” an exhibition honoring the first person to hike the trail in one continuous trip (at the Smithsonian National Museum of American History through October 11), we take a moment to reflect on the trail’s groundbreakers, record holders and legendary characters.
1. The Founder
The Appalachian Trail was the brainchild of Benton Mackaye a land-use planner. Mackaye, who grew up about 30 miles west of Boston in Shirley Center, Massachusetts, was no stranger to mountains. The first peak he “bagged,” as climbers say, was Mount Monadnock, just a few miles away in New Hampshire. And after graduating from Harvard in 1900, he and a classmate hiked what would later become Vermont’s Long Trail through the Green Mountains. As the story goes, Mackaye was sitting in a tree atop Stratton Mountain in Vermont when the notion came to him of a trail following the Appalachian Mountains from Maine to Georgia. The editor of the Journal of the American Institute of Architects convinced Mackaye to write an article about his idea. Published in October 1921, “An Appalachian Trail, A Project in Regional Planning” fleshed out Mackaye’s vision. More than just a walking path, his Appalachian Trail was to be a destination where East Coast city dwellers could go to get back to nature—a place for recreation, recuperation and as he ever so transcendentally put it, “to walk, to see and to see what you see.”
2. The Trail Blazer
Benton Mackaye may have been a thinker, but it took a doer to turn his vision into a reality. Myron Avery, a maritime lawyer and avid hiker from Washington D.C., took lead of the project in 1930, mapping the trail’s route and organizing crews of volunteers to build it. If his reputation serves him right, he wasn’t the most amiable of men. Bill Bryson wrote in his book A Walk in the Woods that someone had once claimed Avery blazed two trails between Georgia and Maine: “One was of hurt feelings and bruised egos. The other was the A.T.” But Avery did manage to complete the trail in a mere seven years; the last swath on the south side of Sugarloaf Mountain in Maine was cleared in 1937. Having rolled a measuring wheel over most of it, taking notes for future guidebooks, Avery was the first person to hike the entire Appalachian Trail. He did it over the course of 16 years, from 1920 to 1936.
3. The First Thru-Hiker
Essentially, there are two breeds of Appalachian Trail hikers: section hikers and “thru” hikers. Section hikers, like Myron Avery, hike the Appalachian Trail in pieces, often over the course of years, whereas thru hikers take on all 2,178 miles in one trip. In 1948, when people had their doubts that such a feat was possible, Earl Shaffer from York County, Pennsylvania, completed the first known thru hike. Having read about the trail in an outdoor magazine, Shaffer, a World War II veteran fresh out of the service, decided that it would be a good way to “walk the army out of [his] system.” Without guidebooks, only road maps and a compass, he left for his “Long Cruise,” as he called it, on April 4, from Mount Oglethorpe, the A.T.’s original southernmost point in Georgia. Averaging 16.5 miles a day, he reached Mount Katahdin 124 days later. The moment, for him, was bittersweet. “I almost wished that the Trail really was endless, that no one could ever hike its length,” wrote Shaffer in his book Walking with Spring. He caught the bug. In 1965, he would hike the trail again, this time from Maine to Georgia, becoming the first person to walk the trail in both directions. And, then, in 1998, at age 79, he hiked it yet again.
4. The First Female Thru-Hiker
When Emma Gatewood set out to hike the Appalachian Trail in 1954, no women—and only five men—had ever hiked it continuously. The farmer, mother of 11 children and grandmother of 23 was in her mid-60s at the time, earning herself the trail name “Grandma Gatewood.” She had never hiked a mountain in her life, but that July, she started in Maine, with the formidable 4,292-foot tall Mount Katahdin, and every intention of going “a ways” down the A.T. In two days, she was lost. After running out of food, she turned up days later back on the trail at Rainbow Lake, where she had made her wrong turn. Reportedly, she told a Maine Forest Service ranger that she wasn’t lost, just misplaced. The incident spooked her though, and she went home to Ohio. The following spring, however, she was back at it, this time starting in Georgia. Five months later, on September 25, 1955, the 67-year-old finished the entire trek. “I would never have started this trip if I had known how tough it was, but I couldn’t, and wouldn’t quit,” she told Sports Illustrated. Grandma Gatewood would thru-hike the A.T. a second time in 1957 and a third in 1964.
5. Trail Celebrations
The Appalachian Trail has its dangers: poisonous snakes, bears, lightning storms, diseases like giardia and Lyme’s, even murder. But the trail certainly celebrates life. In 1978, thru hikers Richard and Donna Satterlie found out while hiking through Hot Springs, North Carolina, that Donna was carrying a child. She was seven and a half months pregnant by the time she hiked Mount Katahdin. In honor of their accomplishment, they named their baby girl Georgia Maine. And it was in Cathedral Pines, a stand of white pines in Cornwall, Connecticut, once part of the Appalachian Trail, that avid hikers Mike Jacubouis and Cara Perkins got married. About 60 guests were in attendance, wearing “comfortable hiking clothes,” as the invitation suggested, and the bride and bridegroom wore denim and hiking boots. The Rev. Bill Kittredge of Lewiston, Maine, read an excerpt of Henry David Thoreau’s Walden, including his words, “We can never have enough nature.”
Subscribe now for more of Smithsonian's coverage on history, science and nature.









Comments (30)
+ View All Comments
For Steve Lemonakis-I am not an AT thru hiker but have been on parts of it while hiking the New England 4000 Footers. A handy source of reference besides the many books and guides one can purchase is www.trailjournals.com which hikers can post to as they hike various trails, the AT included. One thing I would advise from what I have read...don't start your hike thinking you will hike 20 miles or more each day. Weather, sickness, injury, so many factors can defeat that. Take each day as it comes and enjoy it...hike your own hike as the saying goes. I am sure you will need to take nero and zero days for resupply, getting laundry done, sleeping in a real bed. Be thankful for every day you are out there. Check out rules, etc. for Great Smoky Mountains National Park, Shenandoah, Baxter State Park. (I know the latter has a group area reserved for thru hikers.) Stay well and safe and Live Your Dream.
Posted by Loretta L. Lavoie on October 17,2011 | 08:57 AM
As I approach my 65th birthday a high school friend and I have agreed to walk the Trail beginning in March 2013. I began researching the trek and am astounded and a bit leary now. I've never camped out. Currently I am working on conditioning myself to walk 20 miles a day and making day by day plans for the hike,, I have a book about Thru Walking which offers good suggestions. What I'd like to know is how far in advance does one need to book camp sites, cabins and such. Is a year and a half enough. How many miles a day should one consider sufficient.. Is 20 enough? Also, have others had friends or spouses drive along as supply and even shelter providers? My wife isn't thrilled about this but I am suggesting she drive an RV as a support convoy. It appears there are enough wonderful sights for a person to experience while driving. OF course while we're plodding away at 20+ miles a day what can my wife be doing?
Posted by Steve Lemonakis on October 1,2011 | 12:46 PM
His name is actually michael williams and I know him, he is one of my moms best friends and I know him really well.......
Posted by taylor cohen on June 1,2011 | 06:30 PM
Earl Shaffer was a good friend of my father. They went to auctions together and bought and resold antiques. Earl was an early "American Picker" and one of the most interesting people I ever met. When I was a young boy he would come to visit and spent hours talking about war stories. He only ever briefly mentioned walking the trail, he was much too humble for high praise for the accomplishment. I didn't realize the importance of the feat until long after Earl's death, and I was an older man myself. I know he would say something like " A lot of hubbub about a long walk" if he knew how many people revered his efforts. He was a great guy.
Posted by Daniel Foltz on April 5,2011 | 09:47 AM
For those who are confused about whether Grandma Gatewood or Mildrid Norman Ryder (Peace Pilgrim) was the first woman to complete a thru-hike, Mrs. Ryder did complete it first with a companion.
Grandma Gatewood was the first woman to complete a SOLO thru-hike.
Just saying..
Posted by Tina on February 7,2011 | 03:11 AM
I have always been interested in the story about the Appalachian Trail. In 2009 my son gave me a book about Earl Shaffer for Christmas---I nealy fell over when I saw the picture of Earl Shaffer.He was the man that arrived in the town of Onawa,Maine where I was born. He said he had walked the Appachian Trail. He had one candy bar left. My parents gave him food and a place to sleep and he left the next day. I was very young when that happened. I just had to post my comment
Posted by Lucille Gagnon Duhaime on January 9,2011 | 04:31 PM
The Appalachian Trail is only the beginning. There are now ten other national scenic trails. All are beautiful and intriguing. Plus there is also the transcontinental Sea-To-Sea Route from the Atlantic Ocean to the Pacific Ocean. [See ronstrickland dot com] The best is still ahead!
Posted by Ron Strickland on August 29,2010 | 03:52 PM
I hiked the first 300 miles (South to North) in 2000. I plan to return, to benefit my faith-based hospital employer, perhaps in 2010. When I arrived at Hot Springs, N.C. in 2000, soaked off the sweat and grime, then thought to myself, "now THIS is what I should be doing, not looking for ticks on my head." (grin) THANK YOU to all the volunteers who made my experience immeasurably splendid. Trail name: The Phone Lady. New trail name to be announced.
Posted by Catherine Palmer on November 23,2009 | 12:29 PM
FYI: Mount Katahdin stands more like 5,200 feet, not the 4,292 stated in an otherwise informative story.
Posted by David Corriveau on November 10,2009 | 03:19 PM
I just discovered this when I was doing a search for a new blog of mine that should be on everyday health. Glad I found it. And Dog Bone, I didn't meet you but my first hike was in 1999 and it changed my life. For the much much better.
Posted by Nancy Gowler (Magellan) on August 27,2009 | 07:31 PM
I met my wife in Virginia. Both of us were thru hiking in 1999, we walked 1,700 miles together and decided we wanted to continue for the rest of our lives. That was just one of the reasons it was the best challenge and journey in my life.
Posted by Kenny (Wadi) Evans on August 8,2009 | 11:47 AM
Interesting article overall, though I'd call attention to two mistaken details. I believe the Pacific Crest Trail between the borders of Mexico and Canada runs at least 2,600 miles, making it the longer. And Mount Katahdin stands 5,200-feet-and-change above sea level, not 4,292.
Oh, and Earl Shaffer did go by a trail name -- Crazy One. He took it on after meeting a family in Tennessee during his first trip. When he told them what he was doing, the matriarch declared him crazy.
While writing for my local paper on the New Hampshire/Vermont state line, I covered the passing-through of Earl Shaffer and the Orient Express (Bill Irwin and seeing-eye dog Orient). They're still my favorites in 21 years. So far have hiked most of the AT in New Hampshire (except for Glencliff to Lonesome Lake and parts of the Mahoosucs) and about 50 miles in Vermont and 10 in Maine. Someday ...
Posted by David Corriveau on August 3,2009 | 04:42 PM
Great article Bought back so many fabulous memories of the trail that I thru hiked in 1999 .The best part of the trail experience was meeting all the different people who became instant friends once you knew them to be thru hikers..... a breed unto ourselves.
Posted by Al ( Dog Bone) Wilson on July 31,2009 | 09:40 PM
^ Lee Starkey!
I hiked the AT in 1999 and it has remained one of the most valuable experiences of my entire life. Not only did I meet a lot of great people, but I developed an appreciation of the wilderness and a sense of self-reliance that I could not have attained otherwise.
The AT is enshrined in American history, but it should be noted that it is just one trail on the larger Eastern Continental Trail which stretches from Key West, Florida to the Cliffs of Forillon, Cap Gaspé, Québec, spanning sixteen states and three Canadian provinces. Regional hiking groups are cutting and maintaining trails all along the ECT's route, and more hikers are taking it on every year. One day the ECT will hopefully become as important as the AT has been for the past 50 years.
Posted by McDowell Crook on July 30,2009 | 03:56 PM
+ View All Comments