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The Romans commemorated the feat with a victory monument at La Turbie, placing, in 7 B.C., a statue of Augustus on a limestone cylinder surrounded by 24 Doric columns. This is what I had come to see: I hiked along a wooded footpath to a hilltop clearing, from which the 115-foot-high Tropaeum, or Trophy, of Augustus—still partially standing after two millennia—dominates the landscape. The emperor's statue has disappeared, and only four of the marble columns that encircled the monument remain intact. One side of the great marble base features reliefs of winged deities flanking a Latin inscription that hails Augustus and the pacification of Gaul. Sheltering myself from a fierce wind, I gazed down the rocky coast of Italy; directly below, the hotels and villas of Monaco glittered at the edge of the turquoise sea. It seemed a fitting place to proclaim Rome's glory.
The Via Julia Augusta, as the highway was initially called, greatly improved overland travel in the empire. Roman legions could shuttle long distances along it at an average speed of almost four miles per hour. Messengers could travel between Arles and Rome, a distance of about 550 miles, in a mere eight days. "The highway was a means for Rome to assert its power," curator Martin told me. "Its real purpose was to move troops and public couriers at the fastest rate possible." By the third century A.D., the highway was known as the Via Aurelia and regarded as an extension of the empire's road from Rome to Pisa, commissioned in 241 B.C. by the censor Caius Aurelius Cotta.
But beginning around A.D. 235, the Via Aurelia fell on hard times. After centuries of political stability, a series of military coups roiled the empire. Roman divisions began turning on one another, the value of currency plummeted, urban renewal ceased and towns and entire districts were abandoned. The empire revived briefly under Diocletian (A.D. 284-305) and Constantine (A.D. 306-37). But in 406, the Rhine froze over and barbarians spilled into Gaul. By the 470s, Arles had surrendered to the Visigoths, opening the whole of Provence to barbarian control. Over the next millennium, roads, bridges, aqueducts and other public works commissioned by Augustus and his successors disintegrated, and the precise route of the Via Aurelia was lost.
It remained largely forgotten until 1508, when Konrad Peutinger, a book collector from Augsburg, in Bavaria, acquired a 22-foot-long medieval scroll portraying a map of the world, from the Atlantic to the mouth of the Ganges, as it existed during the Roman Empire. The map's origins were obscure: a 13th-century monk from Colmar had apparently copied it from a Roman source, possibly a fourth-century A.D. map, or an even older one drawn by Agrippa, aide-de-camp to Augustus, at the dawn of Roman dominance. Whatever its origins, the Table of Peutinger, as it became known—with detailed topography, a rendering of the entire Roman road network, and 550 illustrations of rest stops, Roman amphitheaters and other features along the routes—was widely published. It has offered archaeologists an incomparable opportunity to track down lost vestiges of the Roman world. During the 1960s, in the Italian town of Torre Annunziata, near Pompeii, researchers used the Table of Peutinger to locate and excavate a sumptuous villa from the first century B.C.
I first met Bruno Tassan on a sunny afternoon in June at an outdoor café in Salon-de-Provence, a medieval town 24 miles west of Aix. Burly and suntanned, with a shock of white hair, Tassan grew up in a village near Grenoble. He spent 25 years working as a graphic designer before retiring last summer to pursue a lifelong fascination with ancient Gaul. "When I was 17, my mother gave me a copy of The Civilization of Rome [by French historian Pierre Grimal], and from that point I was hooked," he said. In 1998 he began working on a documentary about another historic route, the ancient Christian pilgrimage trail to Santiago de Compostela in Spain, where the remains of St. James, one of Jesus' Apostles, are said to be buried. To research the project, he set off on a 900-mile journey by foot across southern France and the Pyrenees, following the Roman road network. "I traversed three regions, and in two of them, the Roman road was in good shape," he told me. "The Via Domitia, which crosses two French départements, and the Via Acquitana, which joins Bordeaux and Astorga in Spain, were both well marked and preserved." This was not the case, however, he would learn, for the Via Aurelia.
What was going on, says curator Martin, was a process of urbanization and development around the Côte d'Azur that largely bypassed Languedoc-Rousillon, site of the Via Domitia. "Here you've got more roads being built, more auto routes, and, of course, more destruction," Martin says. "The vestiges of ancient Gaul just aren't as valued as they should be." As development accelerated, more and more of the road was fragmented into sections, stretches of it paved over or subsumed by housing tracts and factories. Rediscovering the surviving traces of the Roman route has been a matter of deduction, legwork and tapping into the historical memory.
After finishing our espressos, Tassan and I set out by car to inspect remains of the Via Aurelia that he had identified around the town of Salon-de-Provence. We crossed beneath an expressway, traversed an irrigation canal, bounced through fields of grapes, then turned down a narrow dirt road—actually a piece of antiquity—that cut a straight line between an olive orchard and a row of fenced-off villas.
Tassan peered through a barrier of cypress trees into a private garden, pointing out 20-foot-high ruins of a stone wall—what was left of a 2,000-year-old rest house where Via Aurelia travelers could water their horses, repair their chariots and lodge for the night. "Some rest houses had prostitutes as well," Tassan said. "Everything you could want for your journey." (The Table of Peutinger, which functioned as a kind of Michelin Guide of its time, graded guesthouses according to three classifications, basic, moderate and luxury, using a different illustration for each; the cushiest was represented by a rectangular villa with a pool in the middle.) Two guard dogs barked furiously at us, hurling themselves against a fence. Tassan admired the inn's ruins for another few seconds, then said, "Bien, let's get out of here."
We continued toward the village of Saint-Chamas, turning off the main road from time to time to pick up short stretches of the Via Aurelia—dirt paths, a row of ancient and cracked paving stones, narrow asphalted strips through vineyards. Approaching Saint-Chamas, we came across the ancient road's second-best-preserved vestige—after the Trophy of Augustus: Flavian's Bridge, marked by elegant arches at either end, spanning the Touloubre River. "This is a real treasure," Tassan said. Each arch, built from blocks of tawny limestone, rose about 20 feet high; atop a delicately carved pilaster stood sculptures of two crouching lions. (In 1944, a speeding U.S. Army truck accidentally rammed into one of the arches and knocked it down; American construction teams reassembled it and built a new bridge a few yards downriver.) Tassan pulled out a tape measure, knelt and measured the distance between grooves on the bridge's stone surface. "One point forty-two meters [4.5 feet]," he announced with satisfaction—the standard width of a Roman chariot axle.


Comments
I suppose it's impossible to preserve everything, but to destroy something that's lasted 2000 years until we came along is painful. So many of us are fascinated by the Romans and we've probably just scratched the surface of their accomplishments. I hate to see it all disappear in the name of modernization. I'm happy to hear there are those that are trying to preserve our history for the future, thank you!
Posted by KSmith on May 20,2009 | 12:27PM
This is the most exciting article you have printed since I have been taking your magazine. Talk about Indiana Jones! This gentleman is to be lauded for his incredible quest, and contribution. Please make a documentary of this and him.
Posted by Ginny Anderson on May 22,2009 | 07:14AM
Enjoyed the article--your web related link to Bruno Tassan's website is unknown, and the link in the article is to a website in French. Is there an English website on the Via Aurelia? Thank you
Posted by Diane Powell on May 23,2009 | 04:55AM
After 20 years driving truck across the US I know the value of a good detailed map.
Posted by James Meek on May 25,2009 | 11:35AM
Very, very fascinating article, both the historical information and the human story of Mr. Tassan's efforts of preservation.
Posted by Les Borean on May 25,2009 | 04:57PM
The "Road Warrior" was most enlightening. Having visited Frejus and surrounding areas many times I was happy to learn further history in the Via Aurelian. The Office du Tourisme, de la Culture et de Animation has published a detailed account of historic venue in that area - aqueducts, Roman Gate, Roman theatre, and much more. The brochure is entitled "Highways and Byways - The Via Aurelian" and is printed in English as well as French You can learn more at http://www.ville-frejus.fr or E-mail: frejus.tourism@wanadoo.fr. A tourist meca in the summer, it is a delightful place to visit anytime. Thank you for this delightful article. Historic Preservation is an international challenge.
Posted by Phyllis C. Whitley on May 28,2009 | 12:09PM
Terrific Article!
Regarding the 'Mystery' of the placement of the mile markers: They are cylinders; so the Romans probably laid down wood strips to protect the markers and simply rolled them to their desired locations from the quarry.
I am an engineer and wood turner and work alone. I have moved very large oak logs to my woodpile the same way. If you are interested in more woodturning information, please contact me via e-mail at: canedwidek@msn.com
Posted by Chester Nedwidek, Jr. on June 4,2009 | 11:35AM
Thanks Joshua Hammer and Smithsonian for an unusually interesting article--and to Bruno Tassan for his steadfast work in uncovering and holding onto what is left of an ancient time. If I ever get the chance to revisit Provence this is something to look into.
Posted by Larry Esser on June 19,2009 | 09:24AM
Very nice article! Thanks to Bruno Tassan for his great work! Regarding the comment posted by Chester Nedwidek concerning the "milestone-mystery", I want to note that not all Roman milestones are cylinders. In the Museum of Nimes and at the Via Domitia between Nimes and Beaucaire several cuboids can be found, too.
Nevertheless mankind is able to move enormous blocks over long distance since thousands of years. The roman load limits are preserved in the Codex Theodosianus, but the source value is dubious. The load limits are suspiciously low: 1500 roman pounds for an ox-drawn cart, 1000 roman pounds (327kg) for an 4-wheeler, 100 pounds (32,7 kg) for a pack-animal. A British army mule was suspected to carry 90-120 kg.
Thus the easiest way to correct the data would be to multiply by 4. An ox cart would then have a limit of 1962 kg, enough for an typical roman milestone!
Posted by TWibmer on June 23,2009 | 03:33PM
I've read (some time ago) that the width of the wheels of a Roman chariot became the standard width of carriage wheels for convenience sake (so they could ride in the same ruts)--and that width has carried on to the present day Is this true?
Posted by Dick O'Connor on June 30,2009 | 06:13PM
I look forward to reading more on this fascinating roadway and I hope that a documentary film will be shown on this subject. I would enjoy showing it to my students!
Posted by Laura West on July 3,2009 | 12:07PM
I truly find Mr. Bruno Tassan an outstanding person in keeping Roman History alive. Hats off to him and those who pursue their quest in life.
Posted by Richard Rubio on July 5,2009 | 02:15PM
I've had the occasion to drive along the Via Aurelia dozens of times some years back, and it has always given me the intriguing feeling of going along a track trodden by Roman legions two thousand years before me. An outstanding article on an outstanding undertaking.
Posted by Charles Stafrace on August 15,2009 | 04:38AM