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RedditArthur Allen's journalism career began in 1981 in Mexico City, where he freelanced for various publications. He was then a foreign correspondent for the Associated Press in El Salvador, freelancer from France in the late eighties and AP correspondent in Bonn, Germany. Since leaving the AP in 1995, he has written articles for magazines and Web sites including Smithsonian, The New York Times Magazine, the Atlantic Monthly, the New Republic, Mother Jones, Salon.com and Slate.com. Allen currently writes a science policy column for Washingtonindependent.com. "I like to know how things work, and I'm particularly fascinated by the science and technology that lie behind objects of everyday use," says Allen, author of Vaccine: The Controversial Story of Medicine's Greatest Lifesaver, published last year. In Smithsonian's August issue, he takes on tomatoes.
What drew you to this story?
The article was a spin-off of my research into the tomato, which began early in 2007. I had wanted to write a book about the technology of food for a long time, and the tomato seemed like an ideal focus, since everyone eats them and they have been transformed in interesting ways. The idea of a piece for Smithsonian was hatched over a meal—lunch, appropriately enough, at La Tomate, in Dupont Circle.
What surprised you most about tomatoes, that you didn't know going into this story?
Many things. For example, tomatoes are the modern crop that has been most improved (or at least changed) by the introduction of genes from its wild relatives. There's kind of a paradox here. All amateur tomato aficionados are struck by the seemingly vast diversity in the types of tomatoes you can grow in your garden—everything from Big Boys and Early Girls to hundreds of exquisitely peculiar heirlooms that are orange and yellow and green-black and have weird shapes. There are 5,000 tomato types maintained by the USDA at its Geneva, New York station, and perhaps 20,000 other varieties at other places around the world. And yet, the tomato as we know it is really quite a homogeneous plant when you compare it to its wild relatives. There is more genetic diversity in a single collection of Solanum peruvianum, a common wild relative of the tomato, than there is in all the collections of cultivated tomatoes in the world! I'm not sure what the significance of this is, exactly, but it's kind of amazing. And it means that wild tomato species have many characteristics that could be incorporated into our tomatoes—without using genetic modification.
Any funny stories from TomatoFest that didn't make it into the piece?
There were a lot of very good-looking, wealthy-looking California people there, including Clint Eastwood (I have a tomato that Gary Ibsen named for him growing in my garden this year). Pretty much all of these people were toasted on the local wine, which flowed in great and delicious profusion. I may have been the only sober person there.
I also found it interesting that people from all walks of the tomato industry attend this event. Chris Rufer—king of the industrialized, super-efficient California tomato operations—was at the TomatoFest, and so was a wonderful organic farmer I know named Larry Jacobs. In a way, this demonstrates what a small world the tomato industry is, despite its diversity. Doing work on tomatoes I've gotten a sense of the feelings and dilemmas that unite farmers, whether they are organic or non-organic, small, medium or large.
You say in the story that "flavor is in the mouth of the taster." How do you like your tomato?
For me, the tomato needs friends. With a few exceptions, like the cherries and pears and Honeybunches that my friend Kanti Rawal breeds, I don't much like eating tomatoes without some kind of accompaniment. I like making sauces, but canned whole or crushed tomatoes are generally as good or better than fresh for this purpose, in my humble opinion, except for the rare occasion when I have enough of my own tomatoes to make a sauce. Oil and vinegar and tomatoes with a strong garden herb are, obviously, a good combination—and the nutritionists say that mixing oil with your tomatoes makes the lycopene in them more bioavailable.
How are your tomato plants doing?
I gave away about 60 of them to my friends at a party in mid-May. At the time, I felt sort of guilty because we'd had heavy rains and very cool weather in Washington, DC, and the plants looked bad—leggy and yellowed and the leaves had some kind of wilt. But with some nice sunshine since then they've all straightened out and they are beginning to set fruit. I look forward to mid-August with great hope and a certain amount of anxiety.
Comments
Dear Mr. Allen, Thanks so much for your article in Smithsonian on tomatoes. I am 75 years old and remember distinctly what tomatoes tasted like when I was a boy (so that's a lot more than 40 years ago). I don't think my taste buds are dead, but tomatoes seem to be. Thanks to mass production and trucking needs, real ones, acidic in flavor, have gone the way of the buggy whip. Or so I believe. Your note that you are trying to raise a few varieties that might taste good causes me to ask: would you please name these varieties for me and help me learn where I can find seedlings and/or seeds? My wife and I would really appreciate that! (My wife and I are trying to raise tomatoes on our porch, and of course scouring the flea markets for tomatoes that taste like something. We've only been moderately successful -- and this years plants appear to be scourged by a virus such as you mention -- but we want to keep trying. Thanks so much! And good luck with your work.
Posted by Tom Bender on July 31,2008 | 07:40AM
Oh! my! How could you think about tomatoes without taking a drive through Cumberland county in Southern New Jersey and stopping at one of the many roadside stands and tasting a tomatoe that was hand picked just hours ago. Yes, "good taste" may be somewhat subjective, but a fresh Jersey Tomatoe is hard to beat.
Posted by Stephen on August 2,2008 | 10:07AM
Gee wiz Arthur, this is the second time in two weeks i have done a google search on two seemingly unrelated topics - tomatoes and vaccines - and you pop up. First, I was editing my summer intern's piece on Gardisil and she quotes Arthur Allen.... I ask her to see the book jacket. She goes out to her car and fetches it. am not surprised to find it's you. today, i am cruising, trying to come up with a corker of a tomato headline. You again. Glad to see you are still a wordsmith and appear very happy in life. Me too. Saludos, Letitia
Posted by Letitia Baldwin on August 7,2008 | 11:40AM
You missed a trove of tomato knowledge when you didn't include Bill Best of Berea,KY in your search for information. He comes up easily on a google search and has raised many varieties for years,and grows over 150 varieties each year for sale @ the Lexington,KY farmers market. I, like many gardeners want to hear the source for seeds of some of the heirlooms mentioned in the article?
Posted by Mike Tyree on August 28,2008 | 05:49AM
Thanks for the careful readership. I bought my heirloom varieties directly at TomatoFest, but they have an online ordering mechanism as well, I believe. With the results in, I can say that the speckled peach has thrived in my homely garden. They are tasty, too, though not nearly as sharply flavored as the ones I ate at TomatoFest. Kanti's smaller varieties have also done well, as has the Tasti-Lee, a trial balloon that Florida breeder Jay Scott provided. My San Marzanos and other Italian varieties all died before producing much. The little currant tomatoes were very good--they grow like weeds -- but many of the other strange fruit I got through the USDA succumbed to disease. What can I say? I never claimed to be master gardener. Kanti Rawal will probably send you some of his seeds for a small fee if you email him at kanti@gmail.com. He specializes in the cherries, plums and pears. All delicious. Thanks, Mike, for the tip about Bill Best. Tomatoes are a vast subject and I couldn't hope to cover all the ground even in my book--which I hope will be out in 2010--let alone a magazine article. Hi Letitia! I'm going to see if I can find you via google. Best Art
Posted by Arthur Allen on September 3,2008 | 07:15AM
Hi, Arthur, I enjoyed the article very much. What will be the subject of your book? Will it be an expanded version of your article? Or something different?
Posted by Jonathan Everett on March 3,2009 | 03:36PM