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Gregorian Chants by The Choir of Benedictine Nuns of the Abbey of Regina Laudis
The nuns of the Abbey of Regina Laudis chant the Gregorian Mass and full Divine Office daily.
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Along a stretch of scenic winding road, the turn-off to one of the country’s most exquisite artworks is marked only by a small sign, “Pax Crèche.” But every year thousands of people find their way to a 300-year-old hand-crafted nativity scene displayed in a white clapboard barn on the grounds of a monastery. A treasured work at the Abbey of Regina Laudis, home of cloistered Benedictine nuns, the creche is fittingly located in Bethlehem, a tiny town in western Connecticut. After a three-year restoration by the Metropolitan Museum of Art, the baroque Lilliputian figures return to refurbished nativity setting this month.
Dubbed a “Rembrandt or Rubens” of crèches by Met chief designer Jeff Daly, the 68 pieces were carved, molded and painted by artists in Naples, Italy, and given to the King of Sardinia in 1720 as a coronation gift.
The figures, 68 in all, measure only 5 to 16 inches but create a majestic tableau with a serene, rosy-cheeked Mary in pink silk as the central figure. She displays the baby Jesus as the Three Kings, wearing tiny turbans and colorful silks with gold embroidery, present their gifts while peasants and nobles observe the drama, their terra cotta faces registering surprise and awe.
The restoration of the creche was a unique process, according to Met conservator Won Ng. Despite insect infestation and centuries of grime, the figurines were “pristine—never having been restored or exposed to old conservation techniques.” Ng preserved the authenticity of the artwork by first taking photographs of each piece in order to create a museum-quality record of the conservation. Then the figures—each made of linen bundles wrapped in wire armatures—were painstakingly cleaned and repaired. Ng used delicate brushes and mild solutions, some as basic as distilled water, to remove centuries of dust and dirt. On a few occasions, a doll’s wooden hands and feet had to be reconstructed or replaced. With strong magnifying glasses, fine needles and thread dyed to match the cloth, Ng also mended and bolstered the costumes of the figures. Each figure took anywhere from several hours to a few days to completely restore, but Ng counts every minute as worthwhile. “My lasting impression is of the artistic ingenuity and craftsmanship of the creche. We’ve done well by the collection.”
Reinstalled in the barn, the crèche sits in a climate-controlled exhibition case built into the wall of the barn. The display window’s walls are decorated with a mural of the skyline of Naples, with the unmistakable outline of Mount Vesuvius on the horizon. Ng has mounted the restored figurines in a rustic Italian village setting, 15 by 10 feet, made of painted cork bark, mosses and papier-mâché on wood support structures. It was built in thirteen sections that fit together like a jigsaw puzzle. The original creche artisans had designed and styled the built-to-scale setting to look like their own eighteenth-century Naples, a hilly landscape of scrubby bushes and trees dotted with clusters of thatch-roofed houses. The creche figures represent all walks of life and are sprinkled throughout the panorama.
Pausing in his duties, a ruddy-faced lamplighter in plain homespun pauses to carouse with his fellows in the village streets. Townswomen in their fripperies cluster around gossiping. A peasant woman in a threadbare skirt heads home from the market. At the center of the scene is the Holy Family. But instead of marking the Nativity with a manger, the artists situated the trio beneath the ruins of a Corinthian column, a visual connection to the oldest, most sacred place in Italy—Rome.
The crèche was donated to the abbey in 1949 by Loretta Hines Howard, a New York painter and collector, who had purchased it during a trip to Italy. She gave it to the monastery as a memorial to her deceased husband.
The Abbey of Regina Laudis, a complex of low-lying farmhouses, cottages and even a former brass factory that sit behind high enclosure walls, was founded in 1948 and sits on a 400-acre farm with orchards, apiaries and livestock, all tended by 38 resident nuns. Five times a day the abbey choir sings Gregorian chants. Sometimes visitors stop in to hear the ancient Latin music but most come to gaze upon the world-class miniature of a miracle.
Can you give me the address and telephone number of the Abbey of Regina Laudis? I would very much like to visit there and see their creche. My father was also a collector of Naples creches, and an occasional correspondent with Loretta Hines Howard. He left me one of his small but very fine example of the Neapolitan creches. It has only six figures and the original cork setting. A few years ago I had correspondence with the Metropolitan Museum regarding restoration of the clothing of the figures. I finally found a seamstress near here who did a superb job of replacing the tattered garments. We now display the creche every Christmas season in our home.
Posted by Frederick Doyle on December 16,2008 | 03:38PM
Thank you for the respectful article.
Posted by Caesar Cora on December 17,2008 | 03:47PM
Hi; I really enjoyed knowing that there are places that still love to set out the Nativity scenes at Christmas. I have a small sized figures one that my Mother began when I was about 3 years old. She added a few figures each year until she passed away. I have since kept her tradition of adding figures each year. I find them at a La Sallett shrine near where I live. It is still growind but also represents all walks of life that may have been in Bethleham at the time of Christs birht. I am so glad that you had the restoration done so that many future generations and this one can enjoy the season. and the reason for it. God Bless Jo
Posted by Jo Hatstat on December 17,2008 | 03:52PM
Thank you for this wonderful and instructive article. I love cretches, and looks as the kind I like, old fashioned.
Posted by Dora Anderson on December 17,2008 | 03:56PM
I would dearly like to see this this beautiful creche, but since that is unlikely I would like to buy a book with photographs of all the figures and background. Is one available and if so where do I write to buy one? Thank you for the article. I had heard of this Creche but didn't know anything about it. I enjoy your newsletter and your magazine. Sincerely, Joann Tilton
Posted by Joann Tilton on December 17,2008 | 06:41PM
What a wonderful article, perhaps a starting point for a magazine article in the future? It reminds me of the narrow streets in Naples (where figures like this are still created!) and the palace of Caserta that has something like this on display year round.
Posted by Jennifer Panek on December 19,2008 | 02:51PM
Delighted to find this article on such a worthwhile undertaking. We have figures bought in Naples in 1961 and 1971 that are equal to and in some instances superior to those illsutrated in this news item. I would think that there are many more such examples in private hands, and the publicity given through this article to the Neapolitan presepe traditon will surely enhance the general awarness and appreciation of this charming and significant art form.
Posted by barry hannegan on January 17,2009 | 10:02PM