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Pantyhose From the runway, to the office, and now stored away in women’s dresser drawers, pantyhose have gone through several life cycles.

Reg Charity / Corbis

  • Arts & Culture

50 Years of Pantyhose

Love them or hate them, the once-ubiquitous women’s accessory was a revolutionary invention that helped transform women’s fashion

  • By Joseph Caputo
  • Smithsonian.com, July 08, 2009

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    Fashion

    Mid 20th Century

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    Allen Gant Senior

    50 Years of Pantyhose

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    The story of pantyhose runs in the Gant family. Since the late Allen Gant Sr. introduced the first pair in 1959, his descendents have watched the garment move from high fashion to optional accessory. Three generations of women have now experienced waist-to-toe stockings, and few would be surprised to discover that a man invented pantyhose. But here’s the twist—it was at the request of his wife.

    According to Allen Gant Jr., the inventor’s son, Gant Sr. and his wife Ethel Boone Gant were on the overnight train to North Carolina, returning home from the Macy’s Thanksgiving Day Parade in New York City, when a pregnant Ethel informed her husband that this would be her last trip with him—at least until the birth of their child. It was nothing personal, just a matter of comfort. Managing her stockings and garter belt over her expanding belly was becoming difficult, and being a proper lady, she would not be seen in public without her hosiery.

    The year was 1953 and if you were a woman, a night on the town meant either squeezing into a girdle or slipping on a garter belt. Formal dress dictated that females wear such intimate, and often uncomfortable, articles of clothing. How else could you hold up your nylons?

    Allen Gant Sr., then running textile company Glen Raven Mills, was inspired by his wife’s lament. “How would it be if we made a pair of panties and fastened the stockings to it?” he asked Ethel. She stitched some crude garments together, tried them on, and handed the products to her husband. “You got to figure out how to do this,” she said. Allen brought his wife’s experiment into the office, and with the help of his colleagues Arthur Rogers, J. O. Austin, and Irvin Combs, developed what they later called “Panti-Legs.” Their product—the world’s first commercial pantyhose—began lining department store shelves in 1959.

    “It was wonderful,” a 74-year-old Ethel Gant told the Associated Press 30 years later. “Most people my age loved them from the very beginning and couldn’t wait to get a hold of them. I don’t think we’ve ever changed our minds,” she said.

    Allen Gant Sr. had at least one satisfied customer, but the panty-stocking combo did not grab most women’s attentions at first. Though the convenience of not having to wear a girdle or garter belt was a plus, what helped pantyhose take hold was the rise of the miniskirt in the mid-1960s.

    For the fashion-conscious woman looking to wear a skirt shorter than stockings are long, pantyhose were the perfect fit. When iconic models such as Jean Shrimpton and Twiggy donned their mini skirts, demand for pantyhose exploded and women flocked to the stores for pairs of their own.

    “When Twiggy came along, you couldn’t even bar the door,” says Gant Jr., who now holds his father’s previous position as president of Glen Raven Mills. Simultaneously, new kinds of sewing techniques and fabrics—like spandex—brought the cost of the pantyhose down while increasing the range of sizes that could be offered.

    The story of pantyhose runs in the Gant family. Since the late Allen Gant Sr. introduced the first pair in 1959, his descendents have watched the garment move from high fashion to optional accessory. Three generations of women have now experienced waist-to-toe stockings, and few would be surprised to discover that a man invented pantyhose. But here’s the twist—it was at the request of his wife.

    According to Allen Gant Jr., the inventor’s son, Gant Sr. and his wife Ethel Boone Gant were on the overnight train to North Carolina, returning home from the Macy’s Thanksgiving Day Parade in New York City, when a pregnant Ethel informed her husband that this would be her last trip with him—at least until the birth of their child. It was nothing personal, just a matter of comfort. Managing her stockings and garter belt over her expanding belly was becoming difficult, and being a proper lady, she would not be seen in public without her hosiery.

    The year was 1953 and if you were a woman, a night on the town meant either squeezing into a girdle or slipping on a garter belt. Formal dress dictated that females wear such intimate, and often uncomfortable, articles of clothing. How else could you hold up your nylons?

    Allen Gant Sr., then running textile company Glen Raven Mills, was inspired by his wife’s lament. “How would it be if we made a pair of panties and fastened the stockings to it?” he asked Ethel. She stitched some crude garments together, tried them on, and handed the products to her husband. “You got to figure out how to do this,” she said. Allen brought his wife’s experiment into the office, and with the help of his colleagues Arthur Rogers, J. O. Austin, and Irvin Combs, developed what they later called “Panti-Legs.” Their product—the world’s first commercial pantyhose—began lining department store shelves in 1959.

    “It was wonderful,” a 74-year-old Ethel Gant told the Associated Press 30 years later. “Most people my age loved them from the very beginning and couldn’t wait to get a hold of them. I don’t think we’ve ever changed our minds,” she said.

    Allen Gant Sr. had at least one satisfied customer, but the panty-stocking combo did not grab most women’s attentions at first. Though the convenience of not having to wear a girdle or garter belt was a plus, what helped pantyhose take hold was the rise of the miniskirt in the mid-1960s.

    For the fashion-conscious woman looking to wear a skirt shorter than stockings are long, pantyhose were the perfect fit. When iconic models such as Jean Shrimpton and Twiggy donned their mini skirts, demand for pantyhose exploded and women flocked to the stores for pairs of their own.

    “When Twiggy came along, you couldn’t even bar the door,” says Gant Jr., who now holds his father’s previous position as president of Glen Raven Mills. Simultaneously, new kinds of sewing techniques and fabrics—like spandex—brought the cost of the pantyhose down while increasing the range of sizes that could be offered.

    By the 1970s and 1980s, pantyhose were a staple in every teen and woman’s wardrobe. As more women headed into the workplace, sales of pantyhose only grew. In return, hosiery manufacturers continued to market new colors, textures, sizes and technology. “The silkiest ever,” teased one Hanes advertisement. “No one knows I’m wearing support pantyhose,” declared another.

    Those glory days came to an end in the 1990s, a shift that Hosiery Association President Sally Kay attributes to a more relaxed work environment. “You saw the fashion pendulum swing more towards the casual,” she says. The industry witnessed a decline in pantyhose sales, and an increase in other products, such as tights and—with the rise of pants in the workplace—trouser socks.

    Today, many women no longer feel pressured to don hosiery at all. First Lady Michelle Obama, considered a fashion trendsetter, has placed the garment in the retired pile. “I stopped wearing pantyhose a long time ago because it was painful. Put ‘em on, rip ‘em—it’s inconvenient,” she said on talk show, The View, last year. Valerie Steele, director and chief curator of The Museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology is also not a fan. “It doesn’t look good for pantyhose,” she says, “The long term trend is for people to dress more and more casually.”

    Though numbers are down, with 1.4 billion pairs of pantyhose sold in 2008, it doesn’t appear that pantyhose will go extinct anytime soon. For women in more conservative work environments, pantyhose are still a must. Some others still prefer the more traditional option. “Today’s consumer envisions hosiery as more of an accessory,” Kay explains.

    Although Allen Gant Jr. doesn’t distribute pantyhose through Glen Raven Mills, his father’s legacy remains. “I don’t think he had any idea pantyhose would change fashion the way it did,” Gant Jr. says. From the runway, to the office, and now stored away in women’s dresser drawers, the garment has gone through several life cycles. But that’s the order of things in the industry. As designer Coco Chanel once said, “Fashion is made to become unfashionable.”

    Correction: An earlier version of this article misspelled dresser drawers.


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    Related topics: Fashion Mid 20th Century

     
    Comments

    I don't really care what Michelle Obama thinks or prefers. When I was younger, all the women around me wore hose almost daily. I still prefer to see a woman nicely dressed with pantyhose on with her skirt or dress. It rounds out the look, not to mention pantyhose evens out blemishes and other "trouble" spots on thier legs.

    Posted by Brian on July 11,2009 | 08:39AM

    It is go great to see a high quality posting on pantyhose that reflects in a positive light about the history. I find it so interesting to learn some factoids about hosiery or as I call it, lingerie for the legs. Very well put I might add and it beats out the posting on how pantyhose are made article I read a few weeks ago! Sincerely, Sweet

    Posted by Sweet on July 11,2009 | 09:29AM

    Wonderful story. Thanks for sharing.

    Posted by John Martin on July 11,2009 | 07:42PM

    I am not sure what is 'in' and 'out' in terms of fashion but one things for sure, ask any man and they will tell you they find legs dressed in nylons the most attractive.

    Posted by Ben on July 13,2009 | 08:00AM

    Very interesting article, and a subject I can identify with --- but please, the phrase is "dresser drawers", not "dresser draws" --- I've come to expect more from Smithsonian.

    Posted by Sheila on July 13,2009 | 08:12AM

    So many Men are afraid to admit just how much they adore a Woman in Silky Pantyhose, as this would be giving away something personal (or as Pantyhose are the most feminine article of clothing there are then the jokes and then the yelps of, "what, do you wear them? are you gay?" etc...)

    'Tights' have been around for hundreds of years, mostly worn by Men, but so happy to see beautiful Women in silky sheer Pantyhose. It is truly one of the most alluring pieces of Lingerie.

    We Gentlemen around the world, even when too shy to admit to it, love seeing you Ladies in Pretty Pantyhose!

    And Thank you for adding this page.

    Posted by Erik on July 13,2009 | 09:21AM

    As Paul Harvey always says, there's "the rest of the story..." and that is, that men are taking up where women have been leaving off--with the wearing of pantyhose. I'd like to call the Smithsonian's attention to the existence of ActivSkin (www.activskin.com), the first company to sell pantyhose made exclusively for men. We have been in business for 10 years now, and the demand has grown consistently during that time. The trend appears to be poised on the verge of a 'tipping point' that will see it move more definitively into the mainstream.

    A large number of newspaper and magazine articles have documented this emerging trend, beginning most notably with the Wall Street Journal on Feb. 19, 2002 (Kingsize, Not Queen: More Men Are Taking to Wearing Pantyhose). This trend is fueled by the recognition the men can benefit from the benefits provided by support style hosiery, for poor leg circulation, added warmth without bulk in outdoor pursuits, as well as improved stamina in athletic activities involving running or cycling.

    Formerly, men were inhibited from openly wearing nylon hosiery because of its most recent association with women's wear (not originally so, of course, but it's been a couple hundred years since hosiery was initially considered a man's garment). Recent years have seen a small but growing number of men who openly wear nylon hosiery even with shorts, and consider it to be a truly unisex garment.

    For more background on this, please visit my blog, called The Nylon Gene at www.nylongene.com

    Posted by Steve Newman on July 13,2009 | 01:05PM

    Attention Joseph Caputo: You forgot to include the last decade of the new trend in pantyhose for men. If any of you out there still believe that pantyhose is for women only, I shall prove you wrong. Please go to www.nylonegene.com and see for yourself. There is a growing trend for male legwear and even more women love it.

    Posted by Ranjit Kumar on July 16,2009 | 07:29AM

    Bravo, bravo! Brian's July 11, 2009 8:39AM comments, Sweet’s July 11, 2009 9:29AM comments, & most particularly Erik's comments on July 13, 2009 @9:21 AM just about said it all!

    I can only add that all of the Michele Obama references to pantyhose are overwhelmingly negative. The pantyhose bashers picked up on her pantyhose comments that she made on “The View” and they repeated them, again, and again, and again. They really beat this incident into the ground, as if to say, “See, even Michele Obama hates pantyhose, so they must be terrible”.

    Remember, Michele DID say that she would wear them for special occasions. And she DID! Watch the footage leading up to and including her husband's inauguration speech. She wore pantyhose with her lime green outfit! Everyone went on and on about this outfit, but I did not see ANYONE mention the fact that she wore pantyhose with that outfit. She wore them, it was most appropriate to do so, and she looked GREAT!

    My last sentence reminded me of something else. Despite the bother, discomfort, and expense, I think that there are three occasions where pantyhose are still appropriate: weddings, funerals, and most particularly job interviews. I do not understand women who do not "dress to impress" for their job interviews. If the dress code is relaxed, you can always ditch the pantyhose AFTER you're hired. Most female bosses are going to be 35 years old or older. These are the ladies who are most likely to believe that pantyhose are a must or a least appropriate for the office.

    Thanks Smithsonian, nice job!

    Posted by Brian Veggie on July 16,2009 | 03:35PM

    From a guy who loves women's legs. Please let this bare leg thing be just a silly trend. Girls, pantyhose are sexy and this bare leg look has gone way too far! I can understand no hose in the warmer weather when wearing a sundress but eschewing sheer hosiery is just plain silly! Skirts and dresses have last their magic. I and many guys don't get this high heel and bare leg look. What's next? No make-up, high heels and ear rings.
    And these fake tans that women think take the place of hosiery make me want to throw up. Save the tans for the summer and vacations! A tan 365 days a year is not necessary.
    IMO a skirt and high heels with no hose is like drinking beer with no alcohol.

    Posted by thomasbinky@yahoo.com on July 18,2009 | 07:28AM

    Pantyhose is really getting out dated but this is a kind of inevtiable result as fashion changes fast.But still thank Allen Gant Jr who once made a new choice for women.

    Posted by Veronica on July 18,2009 | 07:43PM

    Great article, I used to wear them everyday to work. Now that I am retired, I have retired the pantyhose. While they made me feel great in a suit and high heels, they don't work with jeans.

    Great job, very interesting.

    Posted by Ann Conelli on July 20,2009 | 08:32AM

    For all you gents who love ladies in pantyhose, I suggest YOU try wearing them day in and day out. You too will begin to hate and dread them! Nice beautiful 100 degree August day with those heat retention devices! NEVER! Just like makeup, men want us to look better than we really are...in their eyes anyway. Get used to the natural look. It is how we truly ARE not how you want us to be! False advertising at best. I promise to not ask you to wear pantyhose and dresses (with makeup of course!) if you promise to not ask me!

    Posted by Meg on July 24,2009 | 10:15AM

    I wore panthose for a couple of years and declared them "A gift from God . . . because it feels so GOOD when you get home and can take them off".

    For many decades I have instead worn skirts with knee-highs.

    Posted by DB on July 24,2009 | 11:08AM

    Say what you want ladies, there's nothing that will get a mans attention as fast as a sexy pair of legs in pantyhose and heels.

    Posted by Dr on August 14,2009 | 06:13PM

    I find it interesting that the only positive comments, regarding pantyhose, are from men. You don't have to wear them! They were one of the biggest scams imposed on women; they were expensive, uncomfortable, they tore easily so you had to keep buying them. Women will not go back to them--bank on it!

    Posted by DAC on August 23,2009 | 08:10AM

    Well, it may very well seem that women have left the wearing of PANTYHOSE too be desired. If they don't care to ever dawn them ever again, then don't knock it when we men bring the garment back around by wearing them ourselves which by the way I've been wearing over 30 years!

    Posted by LovesEm on September 1,2009 | 04:16PM

    It is sad that pantyhose have gone out of fashion, but we are doing our best to keep them alive and providing recommendations for both women and men (a growing trend). Like all fashion trends, this too will reverse itself.

    http://www.pantyhoseaficionado.com/

    Posted by PJ on September 25,2009 | 02:36PM

    Ihave a love for caressing a womens leg incased in silky smooth pantyhose or stockings. But the real turn on for this old guy is a garter belt and rht nylons . whats with these hollywood stars going barefoot to show their unattractive feet . God bless Sophia Loren & catherine zeta jones

    Posted by robert clarke on October 23,2009 | 11:37AM

    I'm so tired of these left-wing fascist liberals who called themselves "fashion experts" who think hose for women are evil & taboo for dress, especially when wearing them w/open toed shoes, a look I personally don't mind at all. That was directed at all the style & women only magazines as well as pointless shows like "What Not To Wear." The "fashion world" has now imposed a ban on hose for women, which is the most ridiculous thing I've ever heard in my entire life. I realize there are women who hate wearing hose & share they're testimonies about them being a scam & uncomfortable. But seriously don't all garments have their fair share of flaws? I find it totally incredulous that the "fashion world" is saying it's now ok for men to wear hose & women should no longer wear them. I'm a male & abhor the concept of man hose. I know there are men who like to wear them but these are not for me & I'll never wear them. I personally think hose look better on women, especially those who have the legs to sport them. To women who like & dislike them, hose are a must have in your wardrobe so don't "ban" them. As a man, I think hose make women look better than the dreaded barelegged look. They add attractiveness & professionalism to dress & no women should ever go without them, regardless of what the "fahion police" says. For women who still want to wear hose & dress responsibly, I say more power to you because you'll go far in life. All women should entirely ignore the "fashion world" & do what they feel makes them good about themselves.

    Posted by Bucky on November 3,2009 | 07:05AM

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